Autunno in Barbagia in Orune 2026: Cortes Apertas

On Saturday 12 and Sunday 13 December 2026 Orune, a mountain village about 25 km from Nuoro, hosts one of the last stops of Autunno in Barbagia – Cortes Apertas. Perched at nearly 800 m among three peaks and overlooking the Cedrino valley, Orune opens its courtyards with shepherds’ food, handwoven textiles and polyphonic singing – just a few kilometres from one of Sardinia’s most beautiful Bronze Age monuments, the sacred spring of Su Tempiesu.

Cortes Apertas in Orune: history and meaning

Cortes apertas means “open courtyards” in Sardinian. Through the Autunno in Barbagia circuit, promoted by the Nuoro Chamber of Commerce, a different village in Sardinia’s mountainous interior opens its homes and courtyards every weekend from September to December, sharing its food, crafts and traditions.

Orune, home to just over 2,000 people, is a village of strong character and very ancient roots: people have lived here since the Neolithic, as the Istithi dolmen and the standing stones of sas Predas Ittas show, and the area holds around ten nuraghi – the Bronze Age stone towers unique to Sardinia – and several water-cult sites. The name is often linked to the Greek oros, “mountain”. Writer Carlo Levi described it in Tutto il miele è finito (1964) as an ancient, closed village. Today Orune is proud of its traditions: canto a tenore, the four-part male singing listed by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage, the bonfires for Sant’Antonio and Santu Biasu early in the year, Sas Animas at the end of October and the August feasts.

What to see in Orune during Cortes Apertas

The centre turns into a walking route through open courtyards and homes, with tastings prepared by families and associations, music and canto a tenore, and the crafts the village is known for:

• handwoven rugs and textiles;
• velvet garments, typical of the local traditional dress;
• hand-stitched footwear;
• cork objects.

The detailed 2026 programme – open courtyards, guided tours, performances – is published by the municipality and the organisers in the days before.

In the village, visit the parish church of Santa Maria della Neve, known for its wall paintings, the church of Santa Caterina and Casa Murgia, an elegant early-20th-century building. From the viewpoints you can see as far as the Baronia, Logudoro and Gallura regions.

What to eat in Orune and what to take home

This is hearty shepherds’ cooking, perfect for the December cold:

• homemade pasta;
• pane carasau, the crisp, paper-thin Sardinian flatbread;
• roast lamb and porceddu (suckling pig);
• boiled mutton, a winter classic in the Barbagia;
• pecorino, ricotta and traditional sweets.

To take home: an aged pecorino, a pack of carasau, a small rug or a handwoven textile. Bring cash, as many stalls are run by small producers.

Things to do near Orune: Su Tempiesu and more

The sacred spring of Su Tempiesu

About 6 km from the village lies Su Tempiesu, a well-temple dedicated to the worship of water, discovered in 1953. It was built in the late Bronze Age from finely cut trachyte and basalt blocks, set against a rock face where the spring emerges. About 7 m high, it has a vestibule with stone benches, steps leading down to a small chamber with a tholos (corbelled dome) and a pitched roof with a triangular pediment – it is considered the only sacred spring whose original roofed structure has survived. Finds include votive bronze figurines of offerers and warriors, weapons and jewellery. Drive there following the signs, then walk down a path of a few hundred metres.

More to discover

• the sacred spring of Lorana and the well-temple of su Lidone;
• the ancient village of Sant’Efis, where coins, tools and a fine glass chalice were found;
• a landscape of granite, deep valleys, holm oaks and cork oaks.

Close by are Bitti, with the Nuragic sanctuary of Romanzesu, and Nuoro, with its museums and the birthplace of Nobel laureate Grazia Deledda.

How to get to Orune and practical tips

• From Nuoro: about 30 minutes by car.
• From Olbia (airport and ferry port): about 1 hour 15 minutes via the SS131 DCN.
• From Alghero airport: about 1 hour 45 minutes.
• From Cagliari (airport and port): about 2 hours 30 minutes.

Access roads are winding mountain roads, so aim to arrive in daylight. In mid-December, at nearly 800 m, it is cold and often windy: bring a warm coat, a hat and shoes with good grip. If you want to see Su Tempiesu, go in the morning before the courtyards and check the site’s opening times. Carry cash and book accommodation early, in Orune, Nuoro or nearby villages. Ortueri holds its stop on the same weekend, but it is far away: give each village its own day.

FAQ: Cortes Apertas in Orune

When is Autunno in Barbagia in Orune in 2026?

Saturday 12 and Sunday 13 December 2026, among the last stops of the season.

How far is Su Tempiesu from Orune?

About 6 km. You drive to the entrance of the archaeological area, then walk a few hundred metres downhill.

What is canto a tenore?

A polyphonic song for four male voices – bassu, contra, boghe and mesu boghe – typical of central Sardinia and recognised by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage. In Orune it is a living tradition.

What food is typical of Orune?

Shepherds’ dishes: homemade pasta, pane carasau, roast lamb and suckling pig, boiled mutton, cheese and traditional sweets.