Autunno in Barbagia in Ortueri 2026: Cortes Apertas

On Saturday 12 and Sunday 13 December 2026 Ortueri, in the heart of the Mandrolisai hills, closes the year of Autunno in Barbagia – Cortes Apertas together with Orune. The streets of its old centre, clustered around the hill of sa Serra, fill with open cellars, local wine, traditional breads and sweets, and the cork crafts that made the village famous.

Cortes Apertas in Ortueri: history and meaning

Cortes apertas is Sardinian for “open courtyards”. The Autunno in Barbagia circuit, promoted by the Nuoro Chamber of Commerce, takes visitors to a different inland village every weekend from September to December. Families, craftspeople and local associations open their courtyards to show what everyday community life looks like.

Ortueri, with just over a thousand inhabitants at about 580 m, lies halfway between Oristano and Nuoro in the Mandrolisai, the westernmost of the Barbagia districts. It dates back to the Middle Ages – the first settlement stood lower down, between Travi and Alas Ruinas – and the land keeps traces of the Roman period. Its identity is rooted in vineyards, cork and holm-oak woods and springs. For generations the men of Ortueri worked as scorzini, cork harvesters, so much so that the village calls itself their capital.

The event falls just after the feast of San Nicola (6 December), the patron saint, celebrated with a sweet called s’angule, so the village is already in a festive mood.

What to see during Cortes Apertas in Ortueri

Courtyards and houses in the old centre open with local products, tastings and craft demonstrations. Past editions have featured:

• cork working, including the traditional stool su meseddu de ortigu;
• weaving and knotting of natural fibres (is chimulas), rugs and traditional clothes in orbace, a thick local wool;
• live cheesemaking and the ovens of local bakeries and pastry shops;
• Ortueri’s carnival masks, Is Sonaggiaos and S’Urzu;
• polyphonic singing, even from historic balconies, folk dances and a parade of ox-drawn carts;
• visits to historic houses and Aragonese-era courtyards.

The 2026 programme is published by the municipality and organisers in the days before the event.

You can’t miss the parish church of San Nicolò, built between the 18th and 19th centuries, with a bell tower about 38 m high – one of the tallest in Sardinia and visible from everywhere in the village.

What to eat and drink: Mandrolisai wine

Ortueri lies within the Mandrolisai DOC wine area. This red is a blend of three grapes – Bovale sardo (at least 35%), Cannonau and Monica – and is often tasted straight from family cellars. Alongside it, look for:

• sausage and meat from free-range animals;
• pecorino sheep’s cheese and ricotta;
• traditional breads and sweets from across the year, such as su pabassinu (made with raisins and nuts) and su pitzudu;
• olive oil and honey.

To take home: a few bottles of Mandrolisai, a cork object (light and sturdy in your luggage) or a traditional textile. Bring cash for small producers.

Things to do in and around Ortueri

• Mui Muscas park: woodland and scrub home to about fifty Sardinian donkeys, a small protected breed – a hit with children.
• Punta Pedrarba: a steep peak topped by the rock sa Conca ‘e s’Isteddu, with views over the Mandrolisai.
• Pedra Litterada and the sarcophagi of Prani and Laccos: Roman-era remains with inscriptions to the Manes, the spirits of the dead.
• The country church of Santa Maria, focus of a feast on 8 September.

Nearby, Sorgono and Atzara are fellow Mandrolisai wine villages, and Samugheo is known for its weaving. Further west lies the large Lake Omodeo.

How to get to Ortueri and practical tips

• From Cagliari (airport and port): about 1 hour 45 minutes, via the SS131, then local roads.
• From Oristano: about 1 hour.
• From Olbia or Alghero airports: about 2 to 2¼ hours.

The last stretch is on narrow, winding hill roads, so take it easy, especially after dark. Mid-December is cold and can be wet: bring warm clothes, a rain jacket and comfortable shoes. Arrive in the morning, carry cash and book any accommodation early, as there are few beds in the area. Orune holds its stop on the same weekend, but the two villages are more than an hour apart: give each one its own day.

FAQ: Cortes Apertas in Ortueri

When is Autunno in Barbagia in Ortueri in 2026?

Saturday 12 and Sunday 13 December 2026, among the last stops of the season.

What is Ortueri known for?

Cork and its harvesters, the scorzini; Mandrolisai DOC wine; the bell tower of San Nicolò, one of the tallest on the island; and the Sardinian donkey park at Mui Muscas.

What wine is made in Ortueri?

Mandrolisai DOC, a red from Bovale sardo, Cannonau and Monica grapes, produced in a handful of villages including Ortueri, Sorgono, Atzara, Meana Sardo, Desulo, Tonara and Samugheo.

Can I visit Ortueri and Orune on the same weekend?

Yes, but plan Saturday for one and Sunday for the other: the drive between them takes over an hour.