Autunno in Barbagia in Desulo 2026: Cortes Apertas

On Saturday 31 October and Sunday 1 November 2026, the mountain village of Desulo opens its cortes – private courtyards and old family homes – for its weekend of Autunno in Barbagia (“Autumn in Barbagia”), the festival circuit also known as Cortes Apertas. Desulo calls its edition La Montagna Produce (“the mountain produces”), and it is a feast of chestnuts, nougat, mountain cheese, carved wood and one of the most striking traditional costumes in Sardinia.

History and meaning of Cortes Apertas in Desulo

Desulo sits at around 900 metres on the western slopes of the Gennargentu, Sardinia’s highest mountain range, in the area called Barbagia di Belvì. The village is really three old hamlets – Asuai, Ovolaccio and Issiria – that stayed separate for centuries and only grew into one in the second half of the 20th century. Each quarter still has its own lanes, schist-stone houses and churches.

Life here was always tied to the mountain: chestnut and walnut trees, timber, and pasture for sheep and goats. Desulo was also famous for its travelling traders, who left Asuai to sell local goods all over the island; a square in front of the church of San Sebastiano is named in their honour. La Montagna Produce grew out of that spirit.

The wider Autunno in Barbagia festival began in 1996 in Oliena, when a few families first opened their courtyards to visitors. Since 2001 it has carried its current name and is promoted by the Nuoro Chamber of Commerce and its agency ASPEN together with the villages.

What to see and do at La Montagna Produce

The old centre, with narrow alleys and stone houses whose doors and windows are often trimmed in pale blue, becomes a trail of open courtyards. In recent editions the Asuai quarter has been the heart of the tastings, but it is worth wandering all three. Expect:

• Woodcraft – Desulo has a long carving tradition, and artisans show and work their pieces in front of visitors.
• The Desulo costume – made from red orbace (a coarse homespun wool) and decorated with embroidery, velvet and damask. Some older women in the village still wear it every day.
• The Montanaru Prize – a literary award for poets writing in the Sardinian language, named after Antioco Casula, known as Montanaru, the village’s great poet.
• Parades and music – recent years have brought costume groups, traditional masks from around the island, choirs and evening concerts.

The programme changes every year, so check the Comune di Desulo and the official Autunno in Barbagia channels for the 2026 timetable.

Food to try and things to take home

Late October is chestnut time. Look out for roast chestnuts straight from the fire, and for torrone, the honey-and-nut nougat closely linked to Desulo’s travelling traders. You will also find sheep and goat cheeses, fresh ricotta, mountain cured meats, apple juice from local varieties, and homemade bread and sweets, often prepared in front of you.

Good souvenirs: a slab of nougat, a bag of chestnuts or hazelnuts, an aged cheese, or a carved wooden object from a local craftsman. Many small producers only take cash.

Things to see in and around Desulo

Don’t miss the Casa Museo Montanaru in Ovolaccio, the poet’s birthplace, now an ethnographic museum with costumes, farming and shepherding tools, household objects and Casula’s own library. The old parish church of Sant’Antonio Abate, the patron saint, is honoured with bonfires every January; the churches of Santa Croce and San Sebastiano are also worth a look.

The countryside is full of prehistory: domus de janas (small rock-cut tombs from the Neolithic, literally “fairy houses”), a giants’ tomb and several nuraghi, the stone towers of Sardinia’s Bronze Age. In the woods you can still spot pinnettas, the round stone huts once used by shepherds.

Hikers should head for the Tascusì pass (around 1,250 metres), the starting point for walks to Bruncu Spina and Punta La Marmora (1,834 metres), the highest summit in Sardinia. Nearby villages include Tonara, famous for its nougat, Aritzo, known for chestnuts, and Fonni to the north.

How to get to Desulo and practical tips

Desulo lies deep in the interior, and a car is by far the easiest way to get there. From Olbia airport and ferry port, and from Alghero airport, allow a little over 2 hours; from Cagliari about 2 and a half hours; from Nuoro about 1 hour via Fonni. The final stretch is a winding mountain road.

• What to wear: at 900 metres in late October it gets cold, especially in the evening, and rain is common. Bring a warm jacket, layers and comfortable shoes for steep streets.
• When to arrive: come in the morning, before the crowds. 1 November is a public holiday in Italy and the village gets busy.
• Cash: always carry some for tastings and small purchases.
• Where to stay: there are B&Bs and farm stays (agriturismi) in the area, but they fill up fast – book early, or use Nuoro as a base.

FAQ: Autunno in Barbagia Desulo 2026

When is Cortes Apertas in Desulo in 2026?

Desulo’s weekend, La Montagna Produce, takes place on Saturday 31 October and Sunday 1 November 2026.

What is La Montagna Produce?

It is Desulo’s own name for its Autunno in Barbagia weekend: a celebration of local food, crafts and culture with open courtyards, tastings, exhibitions and the Montanaru poetry prize.

Can I hike the Gennargentu on the same weekend?

Yes, weather permitting. Trails to Bruncu Spina and Punta La Marmora start from the Tascusì pass. Mountain weather changes quickly in November, so start early, dress in layers and check conditions before you go.

Do I need to speak Italian?

It helps, but it isn’t essential. Locals are welcoming, and a smile, a few words of Italian and some curiosity go a long way at the courtyard tables.