Baronia and Gulf of Orosei · Provincia di Nuoro

Things to do in Onifai

Things to see in Onifai, Sardinia: old churches, the Nuragic fortress of Osana, domus de janas, birdwatching on the Cedrino and Orosei's beaches nearby.

Onifai, Sardegna — © Air fans · Wikimedia Commons · CC0

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Onifai (Oniài in Sardinian) is a small village in the Baronia, nestled in a natural amphitheatre that opens south toward the Orosei plain, between the su Gollei plateau and the Cedrino river. With just over 700 residents, it blends nature, archaeology, heartfelt traditions and good home cooking, a few kilometres from the Gulf of Orosei. It's perfect if you want to pair beach days with an authentic hinterland.

What to see in Onifai

The churches

San Giorgio: a late 14th-century church, the old parish around which the first village grew.
San Sebastiano: today's parish church, reopened in 1765 after rebuilding, plain and sturdy with Romanesque touches.
Vergine di Loreto: great views over the Cedrino valley.
Sant'Antonio da Padova, whose square hosts the January and June feasts.
Santu Juanne Istranzu: a small granite church built in 1968 in the Parco degli Ontani.

Archaeology

The countryside is an open-air museum. From the Neolithic come the Istrullio dolmen and the domus de janas (rock-cut tombs) of Doddoi, Enas, Isthiolài, Oddoene and Ominzana. The Nuragic age left the giants' tomb of Cutinas, the proto-nuraghi Perchètha and Rampinu, the Latas and Omine intreu nuraghi built against the rock and, above all, the Osana fortress, with double walls, a multi-towered nuraghe, a sacred spring and surrounding huts.

Things to do in Onifai

Along the Cedrino, among alders, poplars and willows, you can go birdwatching: purple herons, marsh harriers, kingfishers and purple swamphens live here. On nearby Monte Tuttavista, trails through holm oaks, cork oaks and scrub lead to wind-carved granite shapes known as sos Sombreros. Ancient juniper groves dot the countryside, great for hiking, mountain biking or horse riding, and the sea is just minutes away. Discover the activities offered by local operators below.

History

Inhabited in pre-Nuragic, Nuragic and Roman times, the area belonged in the Middle Ages to the Giudicato of Gallura, curatoria of Orosei. After 1296 it passed to Pisa and in 1323 to the Aragonese; the village is recorded in 1409, and the Guiso family, lords of the barony of Orosei, held it for about four centuries. It bought its freedom in 1839 and from 1927 to 1946 was merged with Galtellì, Loculi and Irgoli.

What to eat and buy

Onifai is a land of cheeses, honey, oil from centuries-old olive groves and wines such as Cannonau and Vernaccia, plus breads, fresh pasta and traditional sweets. In summer the Gusti e sapori onifaesi market is the place to taste them.

Festivals and traditions

Sant'Antonio Abate (mid-January): bonfires, sweets and broad beans with lard, washed down with wine.
San Giorgio: mid-April.
Holy Week: rites led by the Santa Croce and Carmelo brotherhoods.
Sant'Antonio da Padova: thirteen days of devotion from late May to 13 June, with a costume procession including Onifai's elaborate dress.
St John the Baptist: 24 June at Santu Juanne Istranzu.
All Saints: the old custom of sas Animas.

Nearby

Orosei, with its old town and the beaches of the Marina and the Su Barone oasis.
Galtellì and Monte Tuttavista.
Irgoli and Loculi, with murals, nuraghi and Monte Albo.
Castello di Pontes, a medieval ruin in the Cedrino valley.

Getting there and when to go

From Olbia, with its airport and port, it's about an hour along the SS 131 DCN; Nuoro is about 40 minutes away. Spring and autumn are ideal for nature and archaeology; summer for combining the sea with village festivals.