Baronia and Gulf of Orosei · Provincia di Nuoro

Things to do in Galtellì

Things to do in Galtellì, Sardinia: the Reeds in the Wind village, San Pietro frescoes, Casa Marras, Monte Tuttavista hikes and nearby beaches.

Galtellì, Sardegna — © Gianni Careddu · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 3.0

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Galtellì is a village in the Baronia, in eastern Sardinia, lying at the foot of Monte Tuttavista beside the Cedrino river, about ten minutes' drive from the sea at Orosei. For centuries it was a bishop's seat and a centre of power, and it still has a well-kept old centre, historic churches and one of the finest ethnographic museums in the area. It is also the village of Reeds in the Wind (Canne al vento), the novel by Nobel laureate Grazia Deledda. It's perfect if you enjoy literature, quiet villages and hiking, combined with a few days at the beach.

What to see in Galtellì

The old centre

The heart of the village is a web of paved lanes, stone houses with courtyards and tidy little squares, carefully restored over the years. Galtellì holds the Italian Touring Club's Bandiera arancione (Orange Flag), a quality label for small inland villages.

The Church of the Santissimo Crocifisso

Once dedicated to Santa Maria delle Torri, this sixteenth-century Gothic church keeps a deeply venerated wooden crucifix, believed to be miraculous and at the centre of local devotion.

The former cathedral of San Pietro

Outside the centre, next to the cemetery, stands the Romanesque former cathedral of San Pietro, a reminder of the days when Galtellì was a diocesan seat. Inside is a rare cycle of thirteenth-century frescoes, among the most important in medieval Sardinia.

Casa Marras and the Literary Park

Casa Marras (Domo 'e Marras) is an eighteenth-century noble house turned ethnographic museum: some 1,800 objects tell the story of farming and shepherding life in the Baronia, from kitchens to looms and tools. The Grazia Deledda Literary Park offers a route through the places of Reeds in the Wind, in which Galtellì appears as "Galte".

Monte Tuttavista and Pontes castle

Monte Tuttavista separates the village from the sea. On top stands a large bronze statue of Christ, a copy of the village crucifix and a pilgrimage destination; on the way up you pass Preta Istampata, a rock pierced by a huge natural hole. From the summit you can see the whole Gulf of Orosei. At the foot of the mountain lie the ruins of Pontes castle, a medieval fortress of the Judges of Gallura.

Things to do in Galtellì

Monte Tuttavista is the village's great outdoor playground, with hiking trails, the pilgrims' path to the Christ statue and bolted walls for sport climbing. You can explore the countryside on foot or by bike, among olive groves, the Cedrino river and small sites such as the Su Gardu nuraghe and the rock-cut tombs of Malicas park. Book lovers can follow the Literary Park with a guide who reads passages from the novel in the very places it describes. And when the heat arrives, the beaches of Orosei are just minutes away. Below you'll find experiences offered by local operators: hikes, guided tours and outdoor activities ready to book.

History

The area was inhabited in prehistoric times, as rock-cut tombs and nuraghi show, and later in the Punic, Roman and Byzantine eras. In the Middle Ages Galtellì belonged to the Giudicato (medieval kingdom) of Gallura and was the first capital of the Orosei district. Between the eleventh and twelfth centuries it became the seat of an important diocese, and the Judges built Pontes castle over an older fortification. After passing to Pisa and then Aragon, the village was handed as a fief to various families; the diocese was suppressed in 1495, restored in 1779 as Galtellì-Nuoro and later moved to Nuoro. Feudalism ended in 1839.

Food and what to buy

The cooking is that of the Baronia: home-baked bread, sheep's and goat's cheeses, roast meats, olive oil from the Cedrino valley and sweets made with almonds and honey. From nearby Siniscola comes pompìa, a local citrus fruit turned into a candied dessert. At the Casa Marras museum you can see traditional crafts up close, such as weaving and basketry.

Festivals and traditions

Sant'Antonio abate (17 January): traditional bonfires in the square.
Holy Week: ancient, heartfelt rites and religious chants.
Feast of the Santissimo Crocifisso: early May, the main festival, with devotion, folk groups and shows.

Nearby

Orosei (about 10 minutes): an old town and long beaches on the gulf.
Bidderosa Oasis (about 25 minutes): coves among pine woods, with limited access in summer.
Dorgali and Cala Gonone (about 40 minutes): caves and coves of the Gulf of Orosei.
Nuoro (about 35 minutes): Grazia Deledda's birthplace.

Getting there and when to go

Galtellì is reached from the SS 131 DCN (Olbia–Nuoro) by taking the Orosei exit. Olbia airport and port are about an hour's drive away. Spring and autumn are ideal for walking on Tuttavista and visiting the village at leisure; the Crocifisso feast falls in early May. In summer you can stay in the peace of the village and drive down to the sea every day.