Things to do in Lodè
Things to see in Lodè, Sardinia: authentic mountain village, Tepilora Park, Sant'Anna forest, Monte Albo, sos Golleos waterfall and local food.
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Lodè is a mountain village of about 1,500 people in upper Baronia, at the foot of Monte Calvario near the Monte Albo range, on the border between the provinces of Nuoro and Sassari. A member of the Borghi autentici d'Italia network, it has a stone-built old centre, ancient forests and a remarkably rich cuisine. Perfect for hiking, unspoilt nature and living traditions, about half an hour from the sea.
What to see in Lodè
The old centre
The village keeps its stone houses with wooden balconies, narrow lanes, porticoes and winding streets; some of the old buildings are protected. Churches include the parish church of Sant'Antonio Abate, su Rimediu and the Vergine d'Itria. Out in the countryside stands the church of San Giovanni Battista.
Archaeology
The first human traces date from the Neolithic: rock-cut tombs, elsewhere called domus de janas, are known here as calas 'e sos naneddos. The most important Bronze Age monument is the sa Mela nuraghe on Monte Prana, and the foundations of the villages of sos Lothos and Thilameddu survive too.
Sos Golleos waterfall
The area is full of springs and crossed by the riu Mannu, which forms the sos Golleos waterfall.
Things to do in Lodè
Lodè is a gateway to Tepilora Regional Park, recognised by UNESCO as a Biosphere Reserve in 2017. It includes the Sant'Anna plateau and woods, with the saint's sanctuary; the Usinavà forest, with tall holm oaks and oddly shaped granite; and Monte Albo, with its white Punta Sos Aspros, a haven for mouflon and golden eagles. Waymarked trails once used by charcoal burners pass prehistoric sites and pinnettos (old shepherds' huts) up to Punta Cupetti. Explore on foot, by mountain bike or on horseback, and paddle a kayak at the mouth of the Posada river. Discover the excursions offered by local operators below.
History
Inhabited in pre-Nuragic and Nuragic times, Lodè marked the southern edge of the Giudicato of Gallura in the Middle Ages, within the curatoria of Posada. After the Pisans came the Aragonese; in 1431 it joined the barony of Posada and in the 17th century the county of Montalvo. The last feudal lords, the Nin Zatrillas, gave it up when it bought its freedom in 1839.
What to eat and buy
Lodè's food is a real discovery. Breads include calistros, coccone, simula, cozzulasa with ricotta or lard and, at Easter, cocconeddu chin s'ovu. Typical dishes are sa manicatura, with pork or mutton, potatoes, cabbage, chickpeas and onion, and su pane vratau, layers of softened carasau flatbread with sauce, pecorino and egg. For dessert: amarettos, almond and orange-peel aranzata and honeyed orugliettas.
Festivals and traditions
- Sant'Antonio Abate (mid-January): bonfires for the patron saint.
- Carnival: deeply felt, with the traditional masks sas mascheras nettas and su Maimone.
- Holy Week: evocative rites.
- San Giovanni Battista (late June): country feast with a horse race.
Nearby
- Torpè, with the San Pietro nuraghe and Lake Maccheronis.
- Posada, a medieval village with the Castello della Fava.
- Siniscola and the beaches of La Caletta and Santa Lucia.
- Lula and the San Francesco sanctuary.
- Alà dei Sardi and the Nuragic sanctuary of Sos Nurattolos.
Getting there and when to go
Olbia airport and port are about an hour's drive away, via the SS 131 DCN or along the coast through Torpè. Spring and autumn are best for the trails; in summer the village is a cool retreat to combine with the beach.
FAQ
How far is Lodè from the sea?
The beaches of Siniscola and Posada are about half an hour away by car.
How long do I need for Lodè?
Half a day for the village; one or two days to explore Tepilora and Monte Albo.
Is Lodè good for families?
Yes: it's a quiet village and the Sant'Anna woods offer easy, shady walks.
