Things to do in Orune
Orune, Sardinia: the Nuragic well temple of Su Tempiesu, views over the Isalle valley, hiking, canto a tenore, shepherd food and festivals.
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Orune is a Barbagia village at almost 800 m, about 25 km from Nuoro, perched like a balcony over the Isalle valley. From the village the view reaches Mont'Albo, the sea of the Baronie and the Gennargentu. Its territory is home to Su Tempiesu, one of Sardinia's most extraordinary Nuragic temples, and it is among the places where canto a tenore singing is most alive. Perfect for lovers of archaeology, panoramic views and genuine shepherd culture.
What to see in Orune
The sacred spring of Su Tempiesu
Hidden in the countryside, Su Tempiesu is a well temple set against a schist rock face where a spring rises. It was built at the end of the Bronze Age with finely worked trachyte and basalt blocks and used into the Iron Age. It has a vestibule with stone benches and spaces for offerings, a short flight of steps and a tholos (corbelled-dome) chamber; its pitched roof with a triangular gable is a rarity on the island. Votive bronze figurines of worshippers and warriors were found in the well. You reach it on foot, with a walk through the countryside.
Other archaeological sites
The area also has the Istithi dolmen, the menhir of Sas Predas 'Ittas, around ten nuraghi, the sacred well of Lorana and the remains of the Roman village of Sant'Efis, where coins, tools and a glass chalice were found.
The village
The parish church of Santa Maria Maggiore, built between 1847 and 1855 and frescoed by painter Antonio Caboni, is one of Sardinia's most interesting neoclassical churches. Also worth a stop is Santa Caterina, known as the church of the Vergine dell'Altura, rebuilt in 1860. Strolling around you will find S'Untana Manna, the great fountain of 1899 with granite steps, and the elegant early-1900s Casa Murgia.
Things to do in Orune
Deep valleys cloaked in holm and cork oaks, granite ridges and springs make Orune ideal for hiking: the walk to Su Tempiesu is the favourite, while from the top of Cucumache, at 909 m, the view stretches as far as Gallura and Logudoro. If you can, hear a tenore group live at a festival. Below you will find the experiences offered by local operators: book yours and discover Orune with the people who live it.
History
The area has been inhabited since pre-Nuragic times and had a Roman settlement at Sant'Efis. In the Middle Ages Orune belonged to the Giudicato of Torres and, from 1259, to Arborea; after the defeat of the Marquisate of Oristano in 1478 it passed to the Aragonese as a fief and was freed in 1839. Its economy has always been tied to sheep farming.
What to eat and buy
Food is shepherds' fare: pane carasau crispbread, homemade pasta, roast lamb and suckling pig, boiled mutton and traditional sweets. The best-known craft is rug weaving; velvet clothing, hand-stitched shoes and cork items are also made here.
Festivals and traditions
- Sant'Antonio abate, 16–17 January, and San Biagio (santu Biasu), 3 February.
- Sant'Isidoro, in May.
- Su Cossolu (the Consolata), first Monday of August, and Madonna del Carmelo, last Sunday of August.
- Vergine dell'Altura, 12 September.
- Sas Animas, late October, and the Autunno in Barbagia event in December.
Canto a tenore, the UNESCO-listed polyphonic singing, is one of the most deeply rooted traditions, with several groups active in the village.
Nearby
- Bitti, with the Nuragic sanctuary of Su Romanzesu and the canto a tenore museum.
- Nuoro, with the Costume Museum and Grazia Deledda's house.
- Lula and Mont'Albo.
- The Orosei coast, for a beach day.
Getting there and when to go
From Nuoro it is about half an hour by car; the village is close to the SS 131 DCN to Olbia. Olbia's airport and port are about an hour and a quarter away. Spring and autumn are perfect for walking; in summer, evenings up here are cool.
FAQ
How do you visit Su Tempiesu?
The site is reached on foot in the Orune countryside; check opening times and guided tours before you go.
How long do you need for Orune?
One day: Su Tempiesu in the morning, the village in the afternoon.
Is Orune near the sea?
No, it is inland; the Baronie coast is less than an hour's drive away.
