Things to do in Arzachena

Arzachena is the municipality of the Costa Smeralda: within its borders in north-east Gallura lie Porto Cervo, Baja Sardinia, Cannigione and about 88 kilometres of coastline with some of the most famous beaches in the Mediterranean. But it's not all superyachts. The town itself, gathered around a huge mushroom-shaped granite rock, guards one of Sardinia's richest archaeological heritages, with giants' tombs and nuraghi hidden in the scrub. It suits everyone: families and couples after crystal-clear water, history lovers, sailors, and anyone keen to enjoy Porto Cervo's glamorous evenings.

What to see in Arzachena

The town centre and the Mushroom Rock

The centre is small and pleasant, with its square and the church of Santa Maria della Neve, whose original structure dates back to 1716. Just above stands il Fungo ("the Mushroom"), known in the local Gallurese dialect as monti incappiddhatu, "the hill with a hat": a wind-carved granite boulder that was used as a shelter as far back as the Neolithic and is now Arzachena's symbol. It's said this very rock gave the area its Roman name, Turibulum.

Giants' tombs: Coddu Vecchju and Li Lolghi

Giants' tombs are Bronze Age collective graves with a tall central stele and a semicircular forecourt of standing stones. Coddu Vecchju is one of the most striking on the island, with a stele about four metres high. Li Lolghi, built entirely of granite, impresses with its size and its setting on a low hill among vineyards.

Li Muri necropolis

Older still, it dates to the late 4th millennium BC and is the landmark site of the Arzachena Culture: circular tombs ringed by stone slabs set into the ground, with small burial chambers at their centre. A unique place that tells the story of Gallura before the nuraghi.

La Prisgiona, Albucciu and the Malchittu temple

In the Capichera valley, La Prisgiona is a three-towered nuraghe (the Bronze Age stone towers typical of Sardinia) surrounded by a village of around a hundred huts. Albucciu, right by the main road near town, is a "corridor" nuraghe built against a large boulder. The Malchittu temple, reached on a short walk, was a Bronze Age place of worship with a lovely view over the hills.

Porto Cervo

Created in the 1960s by Prince Karim Aga Khan, Porto Cervo is the heart of the Costa Smeralda. Architects Jacques Couëlle, Luigi Vietti and Michele Busiri Vici shaped a style mixing Sardinian and Mediterranean forms: earthy plaster, arches, stairways and passages. Don't miss the piazzetta, the harbour full of big yachts and the white, curving church of Stella Maris by Busiri Vici, which holds a Mater Dolorosa attributed to El Greco.

Things to do in Arzachena

The sea is the star. From Cannigione, Baja Sardinia and Porto Cervo, boat trips head to the coves of the Costa Smeralda and the La Maddalena archipelago, with swimming stops in turquoise water. If you love the wind, try sailing or a regatta, or rent a RIB or a SUP to explore hidden inlets. Underwater, snorkelling and diving reveal granite rocks and seagrass meadows.

On land, the circuit linking Coddu Vecchju, La Prisgiona, Li Muri and Li Lolghi can be done by car, by bike or on a guided tour, ideally at sunset. The countryside dotted with stazzi, the old Gallurese farmhouses, is perfect for horse riding and hiking, and local Vermentino di Gallura wineries offer visits and tastings. Golfers will find one of Italy's best-known courses at Pevero. Just below you'll find the experiences offered by Arzachena's local operators: take a look and book yours.

Beaches in Arzachena

Capriccioli and Spiaggia del Principe

Capriccioli is a string of small coves among granite rocks and junipers, with shallow, clear water: perfect for families. Nearby, the Spiaggia del Principe ("Prince's Beach", Poltu di li Cogghj in Gallurese), reached on a short walk, was the Aga Khan's favourite: dazzling pale sand and emerald sea.

Grande and Piccolo Pevero

A few minutes from Porto Cervo, two sheltered sandy bays with a gently sloping seabed. Busy in summer, ideal for an easy swim close to facilities.

Romazzino, Liscia Ruja and Cala di Volpe

Romazzino is a fine-sand beach among rosemary bushes; Liscia Ruja, the Costa Smeralda's "long beach", gives you more space even in high season. In the bay of Cala di Volpe, where part of a James Bond film was shot, the water shows incredible shades.

Baja Sardinia, Cannigione and Liscia di Vacca

Baja Sardinia has a lively beach with facilities in a wide bay. Around Cannigione, on the Gulf of Arzachena, quiet beaches like Tanca Manna suit families with young children. North of Porto Cervo, Liscia di Vacca and Cala Granu are small, more secluded coves.

History

People have lived here for more than five thousand years: the Li Muri necropolis gave its name to the Arzachena Culture, while nuraghi and giants' tombs bear witness to the Bronze Age. In Roman times the area was known as Turibulum. In the Middle Ages, as Arseguen, it belonged to the Giudicato of Gallura, one of Sardinia's medieval kingdoms; under Aragonese rule it was abandoned because of raids and plague.

The modern town was reborn in the 18th century, when shepherds living in stazzi repopulated the countryside. Arzachena long belonged to Tempio Pausania and became an independent municipality in 1922. Everything changed in 1962, when the Aga Khan and a group of investors founded the Consorzio Costa Smeralda: within a few years Porto Cervo, the hotels and the marinas appeared, and tourism replaced farming.

What to eat and buy

The cooking is Gallurese, from land and sea. Try chjusoni, small gnocchi with meat sauce, and suppa cuata, bread and cheese baked in broth, a festive dish. Along the coast, fish, shellfish and sea urchins rule, while inland you'll find lamb, suckling pig and sheep's cheeses. Finish with seadas and honey. The wine is Vermentino di Gallura DOCG, made by several wineries around Arzachena. To take home: honey, cork and granite crafts, handmade rugs and textiles.

Festivals and traditions

Religious feasts include Santa Maria della Neve, celebrated in September around the new parish church, and Santa Lucia on 13 December. In the countryside, stazzo festivals live on, with outdoor lunches, accordion music and traditional dances. In summer Porto Cervo hosts international regattas and major sailing events organised by the Yacht Club Costa Smeralda.

Nearby

• La Maddalena archipelago: a national park of islands and spectacular beaches, reached by boat from Cannigione or by ferry from Palau.
• Palau and the Bear Rock: about 20 minutes' drive.
• San Pantaleo: a granite village of artisans, about 15 minutes away.
• Olbia: about half an hour away, with the San Simplicio basilica and the archaeological museum.
• Santa Teresa Gallura and Capo Testa: about 40 minutes, with sculpted rocks and views of Corsica.

Getting there and when to go

The nearest airport is Olbia–Costa Smeralda, about 30 minutes' drive away; ferries also arrive at Olbia's port. From there, take the SS125 towards Palau, then the local roads to Porto Cervo, Baja Sardinia and Cannigione. The best time to visit is May to October. July and August bring the glamour and crowded beaches; June and September offer warm sea, more calm and better prices. In spring and autumn the archaeological sites and countryside are a joy to explore.

Frequently asked questions

How many days do you need in Arzachena?

At least 3–4 days: one for the archaeological sites, the rest for beaches and a boat trip. With a week you can add La Maddalena and the surroundings.

Is Arzachena good for families?

Yes. Capriccioli, Pevero and the beaches around Cannigione have calm, shallow water, and the archaeological sites are quick to visit and fascinating for kids too.

Is Porto Cervo part of Arzachena?

Yes, Porto Cervo is one of Arzachena's hamlets, along with Baja Sardinia, Cannigione and Poltu Quatu.

Which are the best beaches on the Costa Smeralda?

The favourites are Spiaggia del Principe, Capriccioli, Grande Pevero, Romazzino and Liscia Ruja. In summer, get there early.