Things to do in Tempio Pausania
What to see in Tempio Pausania, Sardinia: granite old town, Nuraghe Majori, Monte Limbara, the famous Carnival, Vermentino wine and the Trenino Verde.
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Tempio Pausania is the heart of upper Gallura: a granite town about 550 metres up at the foot of Monte Limbara, roughly an hour's drive from Olbia. Its old town built entirely of grey stone, noble palazzi, fresh springs and cork forests make it a refreshing change from the coast, ideal in spring and autumn or as a cool escape in summer. It suits lovers of old towns, mountains, wine and traditions, and anyone keen to experience one of Sardinia's most famous carnivals.
What to see in Tempio Pausania
The granite old town
Tempio's charm lies in its paved streets and bare-granite palazzi, already admired by 19th-century travellers. Strolling between the squares you'll spot wrought-iron balconies, carved doorways and glimpses of the mountain. The Palazzo degli Scolopi, a former convent, now houses the town library.
San Pietro Cathedral and the oratories
San Pietro Cathedral keeps its Gothic-era portal and bell tower, while the rest was rebuilt and enlarged in the 18th and 19th centuries. Next to it is the Oratorio del Rosario, with a late 16th-century Gothic-Aragonese facade; nearby stands the Oratorio del Purgatorio, built in 1679.
Nuraghe Majori
A few minutes from the centre, in a cork-oak wood, Nuraghe Majori is a Bronze Age tower of mixed design, combining corridors and a tholos (domed) chamber. It's one of Gallura's most atmospheric and easy-to-visit archaeological sites.
Fonti di Rinagghju
Just outside town, the Rinagghju springs park is linked to a spring water famous across the island, with a hydrotherapy centre. It's a shady walking spot much loved by locals.
Monte Limbara
The granite Limbara massif peaks at 1,359 metres at Punta Balistreri. On clear days you can see much of Gallura and as far as Corsica. Roads and trails cross woods and wind-carved rocks.
Things to do in Tempio Pausania
- Hiking and mountain biking on Limbara: trails through pines, holm oaks and granite, with views over northern Sardinia.
- Wine tasting: Tempio is home to Vermentino di Gallura DOCG and Moscato di Tempio; a winery visit is a must.
- Cork: cork and granite working are the area's traditional crafts, and local workshops keep an ancient trade alive.
- Trenino Verde: the historic Sassari-Tempio-Palau railway now runs as a tourist line through Gallura's wildest scenery.
- In the footsteps of Fabrizio De André: the Italian singer-songwriter lived for years on an estate near Tempio, and the town honours him with events.
Right below you'll find the excursions, tastings and activities offered by local operators: choose yours and book.
History
The area was inhabited in pre-Nuragic and Nuragic times, as the Majori, Izzana and other nuraghi show. Some scholars link the site to the Roman settlement of Gemellae, though its location is uncertain. Tempio first appears in records in 1173 as the main town of the Gemini district in the Giudicato (medieval kingdom) of Gallura; it then passed to Pisa and the Aragonese, and from the 16th century it was a bishop's seat. In the 19th century it was a provincial capital and home to nobles influential at the Savoy court; Giuseppe Garibaldi was made an honorary citizen. "Pausania" was added to the name in the late 1800s.
What to eat and what to buy
Tempio's cooking is hearty mountain fare: suppa cuata (stale bread, cheese and broth baked together), chjusoni (small gnocchi in sauce), roast meats, sheep's cheese and almond-and-honey sweets, all paired with Vermentino and Moscato di Tempio. Take home wine, cheese, honey, cork objects and granite crafts.
Festivals and traditions
The Tempio Carnival is one of Sardinia's most famous: papier-mâché float parades, held since 1960, draw tens of thousands of people. The star is Re Giorgio, the puppet carnival king, who is put on trial and burned in the square on Shrove Tuesday. Between late July and early August an international folklore festival brings groups from many countries. As throughout Gallura, Holy Week rites are also deeply felt.
Nearby
- Aggius and the Valle della Luna (about 15 minutes): wind-sculpted granite and an ethnographic museum.
- Calangianus (about 15 minutes): the cork village.
- Luogosanto (about 30 minutes): basilica with a Holy Door and the San Trano hermitage.
- Lake Coghinas and Lake Liscia: large reservoirs among the Gallura hills.
- Isola Rossa and Costa Paradiso (about 45 minutes): the nearest sea.
Getting there and when to go
Olbia airport and port are about an hour's drive away; Sassari and the port of Porto Torres are just over an hour. The best seasons for Tempio are spring and autumn, perfect for walking on Limbara; summer is cooler than on the coast, and in February the Carnival takes over the town. In winter the mountain sometimes sees snow.
Frequently asked questions
How many days do you need for Tempio Pausania?
One day covers the old town, Nuraghe Majori and the Rinagghju springs; with two you can add Limbara and the Valle della Luna.
When is the Tempio Carnival?
During carnival season, between February and early March depending on the calendar, with the grand finale on Shrove Tuesday.
Is Tempio Pausania good for families?
Yes: the centre is walkable, children love the Trenino Verde and the Limbara woods, and the Carnival is a big party for all ages.
