Things to do in Nulvi

Nulvi is an Anglona village at about 500 metres, on the slopes of Monte San Lorenzo, about 25 km from Sassari and 20 km from Castelsardo. For centuries it was the region's main town, as its churches and convents show. It is famous for the Candelieri of the Assumption, giant wooden candlesticks carried on shoulders in mid-August, and for one of Sardinia's highest concentrations of nuraghi. It suits travellers who love religious traditions, archaeology and authentic inland villages.

What to see in Nulvi

The Irru complex

The most important archaeological site: a complex nuraghe next to a limestone well temple dating from the 10th to 7th centuries BC. About 16 metres long, it has a vestibule, two atria and a round well chamber about 4.5 metres deep.

Nuraghi and giants' tombs

There are about 80 nuraghi in the area. Don't miss Nuraghe Alvu, a four-lobed tower in white stone blocks surrounded by hut remains, and Nuraghe Orria with its nearby giants' tomb.

Churches and convents

The village has eight churches in use and two convent complexes. The 14th-century church of the Assunta has been the parish church since 1605. Next door, Nostra Signora del Rosario (1630) has the altar of sos paladinos and houses the Diocesan Museum in its sacristy, with silverware, jewellery, 17th–18th-century statues and precious vestments. San Filippo Neri keeps the Candelieri all year round, Santa Croce the figure of Christ used in the Easter rites.

The pink fountain

The large pink-stone fountain is the village's symbol.

Things to do in Nulvi

Nulvi is an ideal base for hikes among nuraghi, giants' tombs and Anglona farmland, as far as the country sanctuary of Nostra Signora di Monte Alma. At the table and in the cellar you will discover local cheeses and wines, the backbone of the farming economy. Browse the hikes and experiences offered by local operators just below.

History

People have lived here since the Lower Palaeolithic, leaving domus de janas (rock-cut tombs), giants' tombs, nuraghi and Roman graves. In the Middle Ages Nulvi belonged to the Giudicato of Torres, one of Sardinia's medieval kingdoms; after 1259 it passed to the Malaspina and Doria families, around 1450 to the Aragonese, then to the principality of Anglona. Feudal rule ended in 1839. For centuries Nulvi had a prison, a court and Sardinia's first agricultural high school.

What to eat and buy

Try the sheep's cheeses from local farms and the area's wines, along with Anglona's hearty country cooking.

Festivals and traditions

• The Candelieri of the Assumption, in mid-August: three huge wooden candlesticks, about 8 metres tall and weighing around 900 kg, represent the guilds of farmers, craftsmen and shepherds and are carried in procession to honour a vow made to the Virgin during a medieval plague.
• Madonna del Rimedio, in early July, with a procession in original 19th-century costumes.
• Holy Week, with the rites of s'Iscravamentu (Deposition) and s'Incontru (the Meeting).

Nearby

• Castelsardo, a medieval seaside village, about 25 minutes away.
• Martis, with San Pantaleo and the petrified forest.
• Osilo, with the Malaspina castle and the Valley of the Mills.
• Chiaramonti, with the Doria castle and Santa Giusta.

Getting there and when to go

From Sassari it takes about 35 minutes on the Anglona provincial road. The nearest airports are Alghero-Fertilia, about an hour away, and Olbia, about an hour and a quarter; the nearest port is Porto Torres. The station is on the tourist Trenino Verde line. The most moving time is mid-August, for the Candelieri; spring and autumn are ideal for hiking.

Frequently asked questions

When are the Candelieri of Nulvi held?

For the feast of the Assumption, in mid-August: the best time to visit, but also the busiest.

How long do I need for Nulvi?

Half a day for the village, museum and Irru; a full day with more nuraghi or Castelsardo.

Is Nulvi close to the sea?

The village is inland, but the beaches of Castelsardo and Valledoria are about half an hour away.