Things to do in Tissi

Tissi is a farming village about 10 km from Sassari, set on a limestone plateau around 225 metres above sea level, surrounded by fertile valleys of vineyards and olive groves. It is quiet and genuine, with the countryside reaching right to the edge of town. Come for the Romanesque church of Sant'Anastasia, the rock-cut tombs known as domus de janas and Cagnulari, the local red wine. It suits anyone staying in Sassari or Alghero who wants half a day of archaeology, easy walks and country flavours.

What to see in Tissi

Church of Sant'Anastasia

The parish church has Romanesque origins and was reworked in the 17th century. On the façade and south side you can still see squared stone blocks, pilasters and blind arches, while the arched doorway alternates pale limestone with dark volcanic stone. It once belonged to the Vallombrosan abbey of San Michele di Plaiano. Its bell tower appears on the village coat of arms, and the oratory of Santa Croce stands beside it.

Church of Santa Vittoria

On the main street, in the area of the medieval village, only the façade of this single-nave Romanesque church survives, built from neatly cut limestone blocks laid in regular rows.

Domus de janas and archaeological sites

North of the village there are around ten Late Neolithic burial chambers: the domus de janas, or "fairy houses", carved into the rock. The most interesting is Ziprianu 'e Fora, which originally had six rooms. The area also has the site of Sas Puntas, the nuraghe of Monte Sant'Andria and, south of town, S'Attentu, where remains of a Roman settlement with tanks, channels and burials have been found.

Things to do in Tissi

Tissi is made for slow travel. Country lanes between olive trees and vines, and the valleys cut into the plateau, are lovely on foot or by bike, especially in spring when the Mediterranean scrub is in flower. This is wine and olive oil country, so tasting a glass of Cagnulari or a local extra virgin oil is the best way to get to know the place. Browse the tours, tastings and experiences offered by local operators just below.

History

The first traces of people date to the Late Neolithic (around 3300–2700 BC), followed by nuraghi and Roman and Byzantine settlements. In the Middle Ages Tissi belonged to the Giudicato of Torres, one of Sardinia's four medieval kingdoms. After its fall in 1259 it passed to the Malaspina family and then to the Aragonese, becoming a fief. The plague of 1528 emptied the village; in 1599–1600 it was resettled by families from nearby Ossi and later joined the county of San Giorgio, held by the Manca family of Sassari. Feudal rule ended in 1839. In 1954 scenes of Mario Monicelli's film Proibito, based on a novel by Grazia Deledda, were shot here.

What to eat and buy

The star product is Cagnulari, a red wine from the grape of the same name, typical of north-west Sardinia. The extra virgin olive oil is fruity and very Mediterranean.

Festivals and traditions

• Santa Vittoria, in mid-May.
• Patron saint's festival, in mid-September.

Nearby

• Sassari, about 15 minutes away: old town, San Nicola cathedral and the Sanna National Museum.
• Basilica of Saccargia, a masterpiece of Sardinian Romanesque, about half an hour away.
• Alghero, with its Catalan old town and the sea, about 40 minutes away.

Getting there and when to go

Tissi is reached from Sassari on the provincial road towards Ittiri. The nearest airport is Alghero-Fertilia, about 35 minutes by car; the nearest ferry port is Porto Torres, about half an hour away. The village is inland: the handiest beaches are on the Gulf of Asinara and around Alghero. Spring, with its greenery and flowers, and autumn, during the grape and olive harvests, are the best times to visit.

Frequently asked questions

How long do I need to visit Tissi?

Half a day covers the village, its churches and a walk to the domus de janas; add lunch or a tasting for a full day.

Is Tissi close to the sea?

No, it is inland. The nearest beaches are about half an hour's drive away, towards Platamona or Porto Torres.