Things to do in Osilo

Osilo is a hill village about 13 km from Sassari, perched at almost 700 metres on the northernmost peak of Monte Tuffudesu. From the castle ruins and the Bonaria sanctuary, the view stretches all the way to Asinara island. It is famous for its pecorino cheese, a Slow Food Presidium, for the August Corsa all'anello horse race and for the Valley of the Mills. It suits travellers looking for views, pastoral flavours, climbing and mountain biking minutes from the city.

What to see in Osilo

The Malaspina castle

At the top of the village, two towers and part of the walls survive from the medieval Malaspina castle, long fought over by the Doria family, the judges of Arborea and the Aragonese.

The churches

Osilo has no fewer than 36 churches. The parish church of the Immacolata Concezione, from the late 17th century, has a polychrome marble altar and an 18th-century wooden choir. San Maurizio is Catalan Gothic; Nostra Signora del Rosario, in the old town, has distinctive entrance arches known as lolle. Babbu Eternu, near the cemetery, may be the oldest.

Nostra Signora di Bonaria

The sanctuary stands on the highest hill of Monte Tuffudesu and was once a landmark for sailors. On clear days the view sweeps over the Gulf of Asinara and sometimes as far as Corsica.

The Valley of the Mills

In the hamlet of San Lorenzo, water tumbles over limestone ledges: in the mid-19th century 25 mills worked here. They are no longer in use but can be seen on a lovely walk.

Things to do in Osilo

The limestone walls of the Tuffudesu offer more than thirty climbing routes, while mule tracks and climbs draw mountain bikers. With domus de janas (rock-cut tombs) at Ittiari and Is Scalas, giants' tombs and nuraghi such as sa Pala 'e su Cossu, the area is great for hikes mixing history and nature. Browse the hikes and experiences offered by local operators just below.

History

People lived here in the Neolithic and nuragic ages. In the Middle Ages Osilo belonged to the Giudicato of Torres, one of Sardinia's medieval kingdoms. After 1259 it passed to the Malaspina family, who made the castle the heart of their lands; in 1345 they sold it to the Doria, and in the 14th century it was contested in the wars between Arborea and Aragon, even held by Mariano IV and Eleonora of Arborea. In 1392 it returned to the Aragonese and became a barony, then a county in 1767. Feudal rule ended in 1839.

What to eat and buy

The king of the table is pecorino di Osilo, a Slow Food Presidium made by small family farms. Also try ricotta mustia, a smoked ricotta, Sardinian PGI lamb and casadinas, sweet cheese pastries.

Festivals and traditions

• Carnival, with a parade of floats.
• S'Iscravamentu, the Deposition from the Cross, on Good Friday.
• Sant'Antonio in mid-June and the bonfires of San Giovanni in late June.
• Sa Madalena, in late July.
• Corsa all'anello, in mid-August: riders in traditional costume gallop along a course trying to spear hanging rings with a small wooden sword.
• Artes Antigas, in August, celebrating old crafts.

Nearby

• Sassari, about 20 minutes away.
• Nulvi, with its giant candlesticks in mid-August and the Irru sacred well.
• Castelsardo, a seaside village, about 40 minutes away.
• Platamona, the nearest beach, about half an hour away.

Getting there and when to go

From Sassari, drive up on the SS127 or the Anglona provincial road. The nearest airports are Alghero-Fertilia, about 45 minutes away, and Olbia, about an hour and a half; the nearest port is Porto Torres. Osilo station is on the Trenino Verde line, now used for tourist trips. Spring and autumn are ideal for climbing and cycling.

Frequently asked questions

How long do I need for Osilo?

Half a day for the castle, churches and Bonaria; a full day if you add the Valley of the Mills or a bike ride.

Is Osilo good for families?

Yes: the castle, the Bonaria viewpoint and the Valley of the Mills are easy to visit with children.