Things to do in Perfugas
Things to do in Perfugas, Sardinia: Predio Canopoli sacred well, archaeological museum, St George altarpiece, churches and Lake Coghinas.
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Perfugas is an Anglona town of around 2,200 people, about 50 km from Sassari and 30 km from Castelsardo, in the valley that the Coghinas river separates from Gallura. Its name may come from the Latin perfugae, "fugitives", linked to the legend of the Balari, an ancient people of the island. It is a small archaeology capital, with some of Sardinia's oldest artefacts, a refined nuragic sacred well and the island's largest altarpiece. It is the ideal stop for lovers of history, sacred art and Anglona's nature.
What to see in Perfugas
Predio Canopoli sacred well
Right in the old town, among the houses, lies an elegant well temple in limestone blocks, built between the late Middle Bronze Age and the Iron Age: a paved vestibule, a staircase, the well chamber and its roof. Around it are an enclosure, traces of the village and votive offerings, including a bronze sculpture.
Archaeological and palaeobotanical museum
It displays fossils from Anglona's petrified forests, some of the oldest stone tools ever found in Sardinia, the votive offerings from Predio Canopoli and a Mother Goddess figurine with child from the 4th millennium BC.
The St George altarpiece and Diocesan Museum
A chapel of the parish church of Santa Maria degli Angeli houses the local section of the Diocesan Museum. Its treasure is the St George altarpiece (retablo), Sardinia's largest, over eight metres tall: 54 panels painted in the late 16th century by an anonymous artist known as the "Master of Perfugas", showing the mysteries of the Rosary, the life of Christ and scenes of Saints George and Gavino. There are also a 14th-century wooden Madonna and 16th-century silverwork.
The churches
Santa Maria de foras, a Romanesque church from 1160, was the first parish church. San Giorgio, about a kilometre from town, is built of red volcanic stone in Catalan Gothic style, facing a nuraghe. The area also has Santa Vittoria di Su Sassu, consecrated in 1120.
Things to do in Perfugas
The countryside is an open-air museum: the Concas stone circles, the Su Lione dolmen, domus de janas (rock-cut tombs) and dozens of nuraghi can be reached on foot or by bike. The Coghinas river and lake invite waterside walks and outdoor activities. Browse the tours and experiences offered by local operators just below.
History
Along the Battana stream, remains of Lower Palaeolithic settlements have been found. Neolithic monuments followed and, in the 2nd millennium BC, around fifty nuragic settlements. In the Middle Ages Perfugas belonged to the Giudicato of Torres, one of Sardinia's medieval kingdoms; after 1259 it passed to the Doria family, who built several towers, and around 1450 to the Aragonese. In the 18th century it joined the principality of Anglona; feudal rule ended in 1839.
What to eat and buy
The cooking is Anglona farm food: sheep's cheeses, meats, bread and festive sweets.
Festivals and traditions
The main festival honours San Giorgio, the town's patron, shown slaying the dragon on its coat of arms, in late April.
Nearby
- Lake Coghinas, on the border with Gallura.
- Laerru, with the Monte Ultana archaeological park.
- Martis, with the Carrucana petrified forest and the Triulintas waterfall.
- Castelsardo and the beaches of Valledoria, about half an hour away.
Getting there and when to go
From Sassari it takes about 50 minutes. The nearest airport is Olbia, about an hour and a quarter away; Alghero-Fertilia is just over an hour. The nearest ports are Porto Torres and Olbia. Perfugas has a station on the tourist Trenino Verde line. Spring and autumn are ideal for hiking, and late April brings the San Giorgio festival.
Frequently asked questions
How long do I need for Perfugas?
Half a day for the sacred well, museums and altarpiece; a full day with San Giorgio and the sites around town.
Is Perfugas good for families?
Yes: children love the fossils and prehistoric finds in the museum, and the sacred well is right in the centre.
Is Perfugas close to the sea?
The town is inland, but the beaches of Valledoria and Castelsardo are about half an hour's drive away.
