Things to do in Lanusei
Things to do in Lanusei, Sardinia: the cathedral, Seleni woods and Nuragic park, the Trenino Verde railway, culurgionis and views over Ogliastra.
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Lanusei is Ogliastra's little hill town: it sits at around 600 metres, and from its streets the view drops across the plain to the sea at Arbatax. Seat of the diocese, the court and the hospital, it was one of the two capitals of Ogliastra province until 2016. Above the town lies the Seleni wood, with a Nuragic archaeological park among holm oaks and chestnuts. It is ideal if you want cooler summers, culture, good food and an easy base between mountains and coast.
What to see in Lanusei
Santa Maria Maddalena cathedral
Overlooking Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, the cathedral holds works by Sardinian painter Mario Delitala. Nearby, at the diocese headquarters, the Diocesan Museum displays religious art from Ogliastra.
Seleni park
In the upper part of town, the Seleni wood of holm oaks and chestnuts contains an archaeological park: a complex nuraghe (Bronze Age stone tower), giants' tombs (two open to visitors), at least two sacred wells and a probable dolmen, plus a prehistory trail. Perfect for a shady walk.
Santi Cosma e Damiano
This country church stands at almost 1,000 metres, in a scenic spot linked to two of the town's best-loved feasts.
The planetarium
Inside the science high school is the Ferdinando Caliumi Planetarium, devoted to astronomy outreach.
Things to do in Lanusei
Lanusei station is on the Trenino Verde Mandas–Arbatax tourist line, running mainly in summer and one of the best ways to discover Ogliastra. Hike and stroll in Seleni and the surrounding hills, set off on Gennargentu excursions, or drive down to the sea at Tortolì and Arbatax in under half an hour. To find the right outing, browse the experiences offered by local operators just below.
History
The area has been inhabited since prehistory, as Seleni's monuments show; the Santoru nuraghe stands in the detached Quirra area of the municipality. The first written records of Lanusei date to the 12th century. In 1807 King Vittorio Emanuele I made it a provincial capital, and it long remained Ogliastra's administrative centre. It was freed from feudal rule in 1839.
What to eat and buy
Try Ogliastra's PGI culurgionis, potato and cheese ravioli sealed in a wheat-ear pattern, macarronis de ungra pasta, pistoccu flatbread and decorated pani pintau, anguli de cipudda fritters and cheeses such as casu 'e fitta and casu ascedu. Early summer is cherry time.
Festivals and traditions
- Madonna d'Ogliastra: a diocesan pilgrimage in spring, during Eastertide.
- Cherry festival: the last weekend of June.
- Santa Maria Maddalena, patron saint: 22 July.
- Santi Cosma e Damiano: in August and on 26 September.
Nearby
- Tortolì-Arbatax: the red rocks, port and beaches.
- Ilbono: the Scerì archaeological park.
- Loceri: the Sa Domu 'e s'Olia olive museum.
- Arzana and the Gennargentu.
- Gairo: Gairo Vecchio and Perda Liana.
Getting there and when to go
Reach Lanusei on the SS198, or on the SS390 from the coast. Arbatax port and Tortolì airport are about 25 minutes' drive; Cagliari about two hours. Summer is pleasant thanks to cooler air than the coast; spring and autumn are ideal for hiking and the Trenino Verde.
FAQ
How long do you need in Lanusei?
A day for the centre, cathedral and Seleni; longer if you use it as a base for Ogliastra.
Is Lanusei good for families?
Yes: the Seleni wood is great for children and the sea is close.
Is Lanusei on the sea?
No, but Tortolì and Arbatax beaches are less than half an hour away.
