Things to do in Baunei

Baunei is a shepherds' village perched at about 480 metres on the limestone mountains of Ogliastra, in central-eastern Sardinia, and its territory holds one of the most spectacular coastlines in the Mediterranean: the cliffs of the Gulf of Orosei, dotted with coves you can only reach on foot or by boat. This is the home of Cala Goloritzé, Cala Mariolu, the sea stack of Pedra Longa and the legendary Selvaggio Blu trek. Above the village lies the Golgo plateau, while down on the coast the hamlet of Santa Maria Navarrese has a beach, a marina and all the services you need. It's a perfect destination if you love wild seascapes, hiking and unspoilt nature, and families will find Santa Maria Navarrese a relaxed base.

What to see in Baunei

The village and the church of San Nicola

Baunei stretches along a rocky ridge with wide views over the Tortolì plain and the sea. At its heart stands the parish church of San Nicola di Bari, founded in the 17th century and remodelled in the 20th, easy to spot by its dome.

The Golgo plateau and Su Sterru

A road of about 8 km of hairpin bends climbs from the village to the Golgo plateau, at over 600 metres: a world of its own, with dark basalt, ancient holm oaks, junipers and free-grazing animals. Here you'll find Su Sterru, a karst sinkhole about 270 metres deep, considered one of the deepest of its kind in Europe. Next to it is the little country church of San Pietro al Golgo, surrounded by cumbessias, simple pilgrims' lodgings; legend says it was built to tame a dragon living in the abyss. Nearby are Is Piscinas, natural rock pools where rainwater collects.

Pedra Longa

South of Santa Maria Navarrese, a short paved road leads to Pedra Longa, a limestone pinnacle about 128 metres tall that rises straight out of the sea. It's one of the symbols of Ogliastra, the starting point of the Selvaggio Blu and a magnet for climbers. The sunset light on the rock is unforgettable.

Santa Maria Navarrese

Baunei's seaside hamlet, about 8 km from the village, gathers around a small white church shaded by thousand-year-old wild olive trees. Tradition says it was built by a princess of Navarre who survived a shipwreck around the year 1000. On the headland stands a Spanish-era watchtower overlooking the islet of Ogliastra, and the marina is where boat trips to the coves set off.

Archaeology

The area is scattered with Nuragic remains: more than a hundred sites including nuraghi (Bronze Age stone towers) and villages, around twenty giants' tombs and several temples. Many are hidden in the scrub and are best reached with a local guide.

Things to do in Baunei

Baunei is one of Sardinia's outdoor capitals. The most popular experiences are:

• Boat and dinghy trips from Santa Maria Navarrese along the Gulf of Orosei, stopping at Cala Mariolu, Cala dei Gabbiani, Cala Biriala, the Piscine di Venere and Cala Luna. Renting a dinghy, with or without a licence, is very common.
• Hiking: the descent from the Golgo plateau to Cala Goloritzé is the most famous, but old shepherds' mule tracks also lead to Cala Sisine, Cala Biriala and Cala Mariolu. Many routes are unmarked, so a guide is the safe choice.
• Selvaggio Blu: created in 1987 by Mario Verin and Peppino Cicalò, it's considered one of the toughest and most beautiful treks in Italy. Over 40 km from Pedra Longa to Cala Sisine, usually in 4–6 days, with climbing sections, abseils, little water and long stretches with no visible path. Only for experienced hikers, ideally with a guide.
• Rock climbing on the crags of Pedra Longa, Goloritzé and the plateau, among the best known in Europe.
• Kayaking and snorkelling in crystal-clear water with sea caves.
• Off-road tours on the Golgo and lunches with shepherds, to taste traditional food at a sheepfold.
• Paragliding from the Golgo, to see the coast from above.

Whatever your way of enjoying nature, just below you'll find the experiences offered by local operators in Baunei and Santa Maria Navarrese: pick yours and book your day.

Beaches of Baunei

Baunei's coves are small inlets of white pebbles and pale sand enclosed by limestone walls, with turquoise water. Almost none can be reached by car: you arrive by boat or on foot.

Cala Goloritzé

A natural monument since 1993, formed by a landslide in 1962, it's famous for its pinnacle of over 140 metres and its rock arch over the sea. You can only reach it on foot from the Golgo, about an hour and a half downhill with a drop of almost 500 metres; boats cannot approach the shore. Access is limited and must be booked, so check the rules before you go.

Cala Mariolu and Cala dei Gabbiani

Cala Mariolu (in Sardinian Ispuligidenie, "snow fleas", after its tiny white pebbles) is often ranked among Italy's most beautiful beaches; Cala dei Gabbiani lies right next to it. Both are mainly reached by boat.

Cala Biriala, Cala Sisine and Cala Luna

Cala Biriala is a little pebble gem; Cala Sisine opens at the end of a wooded valley; Cala Luna, shared with Dorgali, has huge caves and a small lagoon behind the beach.

Santa Maria Navarrese

The hamlet's beach of sand and pebbles, shaded by wild olives, is the easiest to reach and the best for families with young children.

History

Caves in the area have revealed Neolithic traces, and the Nuragic age left dozens of villages, towers and giants' tombs. The name Baunei first appears in records in 1316. In the Middle Ages the village belonged to the Giudicato (medieval kingdom) of Cagliari, then came under Pisa and, after the Aragonese conquest of 1324, joined the Kingdom of Sardinia; from 1363 it was part of the County of Quirra, later a marquisate. When feudalism was abolished in 1839 the village bought back its freedom. For centuries Baunei lived from herding, mainly goats; since the late 20th century tourism, centred on Santa Maria Navarrese, has grown alongside the traditional economy.

What to eat and buy

Baunei's cooking is the food of Ogliastra's shepherds: roast goat and kid, suckling pig, goat's and sheep's cheeses and fresh ricotta. Don't miss culurgiones, Ogliastra's ravioli filled with potato, cheese and mint and sealed with a braid-like pleat, and the traditional breads. Pair it all with Cannonau red wine from the nearby hills. To take home: cheeses, Mediterranean scrub honey and almond sweets.

Festivals and traditions

The most heartfelt celebration is San Pietro al Golgo in late June, when the community climbs to the plateau for Mass, festivities around the little church and a goat-meat feast. Through the year the village and Santa Maria Navarrese celebrate their religious feasts with processions, traditional singing and dancing in the square.

Around Baunei

• Arbatax and the Rocce Rosse: red porphyry rocks on the sea, about 15 minutes by car.
• Tortolì, with the sandy beaches of Orrì and Cea.
• Gorropu Gorge, one of Europe's deepest canyons, between Urzulei and Orgosolo.
• Dorgali and Cala Gonone, to the north, for more coves and the Bue Marino sea caves.
• Ulassai and the Tacchi d'Ogliastra, limestone mountains with caves and the work of artist Maria Lai, about an hour's drive.

Getting there and when to go

The nearest airports are Olbia and Cagliari, both about two hours away by car; the port of Arbatax, a few kilometres away, has seasonal ferries to mainland Italy. The main road is the SS125 Orientale Sarda, which runs through the village. May to October is best for the sea; spring and autumn are ideal for hiking and the Selvaggio Blu, when the heat is bearable. July and August are the busiest months.

FAQ

How many days do you need in Baunei?

At least three: one for a boat trip to the coves, one for the Golgo and Cala Goloritzé, one for Pedra Longa and Santa Maria Navarrese. The Selvaggio Blu needs another four to six days.

How do you get to Cala Goloritzé?

Only on foot, on a trail from the Golgo plateau that takes about an hour and a half downhill. Numbers are limited: book ahead and bring water and hiking shoes.

Is Baunei good for families?

Yes, especially if you stay in Santa Maria Navarrese, which has a calm beach. Boat trips to the coves suit children too, while the steeper trails are best for fit teenagers.