Things to do in Urzulei

Urzulei is a small mountain village in Ogliastra, at about 500 metres along the SS125 "Orientale Sarda" road, on the edge of the Supramonte, Sardinia's wildest limestone plateau. Some of the island's most famous hikes start from its land, including the descent into Gorropu Gorge and the Codula di Luna valley down to the sea. It's perfect for hikers, cavers and lovers of untouched nature, and for anyone curious about shepherds' life and food.

What to see in Urzulei

Gorropu Gorge

On the border with Orgosolo lies Gorropu Gorge, one of Europe's deepest canyons: its limestone walls rise almost 500 metres and in places narrow to just a few metres apart. The classic route starts from the Genna 'e Silana pass on the SS125 and descends on foot into the Flumineddu valley: the climb back is tough, but the scenery rewards every step.

Codula di Luna

The Codula di Luna (Codula Ilune in Sardinian) is a long valley running from Urzulei's territory down to Cala Luna beach in the Gulf of Orosei. Among holm oaks, oleanders and rock walls grows an ancient wild vine considered one of the oldest in the world.

Caves and the Supramonte

The area has hundreds of caves: the most famous is Su Palu, part of a huge underground karst system that reaches the Bue Marino cave on the coast. It's not open to tourists, but it explains why Urzulei is called Sardinia's caving capital. Above ground, the Supramonte is home to mouflon, wild boar and birds of prey.

Archaeology

On the plateau, above 1,000 metres, are Nuragic remains such as the Perdeballa nuraghe and the S'Arena giants' tombs. A cave in the area yielded the Nuragic bronze figurine known as La madre dell'ucciso ("The mother of the slain"), now in the Cagliari Archaeological Museum.

Things to do in Urzulei

Urzulei is all about hiking, but the Supramonte demands experience: trails are poorly marked and there is no water. The best advice is to go with a local guide who knows the paths and the rhythm of the mountain.

• Guided hikes to Gorropu, the Codula di Luna and across the plateau.
• Canyoning and caving with expert leaders.
• 4x4 tours on Supramonte tracks.
• Lunch with shepherds at their sheepfolds, with roasts and cheese.

Scroll down the list below for hikes and experiences run by local guides and operators: the safest and most rewarding way to discover the Supramonte.

History

The area has been inhabited at least since the Nuragic age, as towers, tombs and bronzes show. Some scholars believe defeated Goths were deported here in Byzantine times. In the Middle Ages Urzulei belonged to the Judicate of Cagliari, in the Ogliastra district, and later to the Marquisate of Quirra. Other villages once stood in the area, such as Mannorri, abandoned in the late 18th century. For centuries the economy rested on herding, which is still a living part of local identity.

What to eat and buy

The best-known product is Urzulei ham, cured in the mountain air. Also try culurgiones, macarrones imboddiaos (pasta with stringy melted cheese), piggiolu, a thin bread made both crisp and soft, and goat and sheep cheeses. One of the oldest specialities is lande cottu, bread made from holm-oak acorns. To take home: ham, cured meats, cheese and honey.

Festivals and traditions

The patron saint is San Giorgio di Suelli. In summer the village hosts a well-known morra championship, the ancient game of flung fingers and shouted numbers, drawing players from all over the island. Since 2009 there have also been annual cavers' gatherings.

Nearby

• Baunei and the Golgo plateau: the Su Sterru sinkhole and the church of San Pietro, about 40 minutes away.
• Santa Maria Navarrese and Arbatax: the Ogliastra coast, under an hour away.
• Dorgali and Cala Gonone: the Ispinigoli and Bue Marino caves, to the north.
• Talana and Triei: small neighbouring villages with Nuragic sites and woods.

Getting there and when to go

Urzulei lies on the SS125, about two hours by car from Olbia airport and port and about three hours from Cagliari; the nearest port is Arbatax. Spring and autumn are the best seasons for hiking, with mild temperatures; in summer the Supramonte is very hot, so set off at dawn.

FAQ

How long is the Gorropu hike?

From the Genna 'e Silana pass it usually takes several hours there and back, with a tiring climb out: start early and carry plenty of water.

Can you hike the Supramonte without a guide?

Only the best-known trails, and only with experience. For the Codula di Luna and less-travelled routes, a local guide is the better choice.

Does Urzulei have a beach?

No, it's a mountain village, but the Codula di Luna leads on foot to Cala Luna, and the Ogliastra beaches are less than an hour's drive away.