Things to do in Ussassai
Ussassai, a mountain village in Sardinia: San Salvatore sanctuary, Montarbu forest, natural pools, the Trenino Verde railway and the apple festival.
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Ussassai (Ussàssa in Sardinian) is a small mountain village of just over 400 people, at around 710 metres on the slopes of Monte Arcuerì, on the border between the Barbagia di Seulo and Ogliastra. It overlooks the Rio San Gerolamo valley, among holm oak and oak woods, springs and limestone peaks. It is ideal if you are after silence, nature hikes, the Trenino Verde tourist railway and the traditions of an authentic village.
What to see in Ussassai
San Salvatore sanctuary
A few kilometres from the village stands the country church of the Santissimo Salvatore (Santu Sarbadori), from the 12th century, in Romanesque-Byzantine style. Around it, in a semicircle, are the cumbessias, small stone houses where pilgrims stayed during festivals.
Church of San Giovanni Battista
The parish church of the patron saint keeps a monstrance from 1625. The village has a lower part with old stone houses and a newer upper part.
Rocks and views
The landscape is shaped by limestone and dolomite formations: look out for the rock spire called "Dante", which recalls the poet's profile.
Things to do in Ussassai
Ussassai is a hiker's paradise: the Niala and Takiggeddu woods can be explored on foot or by mountain bike, and forest trails lead to natural pools such as S'Ogliu Ermanu and Perda Morta. Part of the Montarbu forest, a wildlife reserve with fallow deer and mouflon, golden eagles and peregrine falcons, lies within the area. Don't miss a ride on the Trenino Verde, the historic Mandas–Arbatax line now used for tourism, which stops at Ussassai station, opened in 1893 about 9 km from the village. Discover the experiences offered by local operators below and pick your excursion.
History
The area has been inhabited since the Neolithic and has a few nuraghi. In the Middle Ages it belonged to the Judicate of Cagliari; after 1258 it came under Pisan influence and from 1324 under the Aragonese, who granted it to several families, including the Carroz. Later part of the Duchy of Mandas, it was freed from feudal rule in 1839.
What to eat and buy
The signature product is the red-cheeked apple, grown for generations. At the festival you can taste culurgiones, the area's typical filled pasta, and coccois prenas, traditional stuffed breads, along with local cheese and meat.
Festivals and traditions
- San Nicola, last Sunday in May.
- San Lorenzo, 10 August.
- Sa Coja antiga, a re-enactment of a traditional village wedding, mid to late August.
- San Giovanni Battista, the patron saint's feast, late August.
- San Salvatore on 12 September and San Gerolamo on 30 September.
- Apple festival, late October.
Nearby
- Seui, with its old centre and the Montarbu forest.
- Perdasdefogu, the village of longevity.
- Osini and Ulassai, in the heart of the Tacchi of Ogliastra.
- Jerzu, land of Cannonau.
Getting there and when to go
The village is reached via the SS198 road between Seui and Lanusei. The nearest port is Arbatax, about an hour's drive, as is the Ogliastra coast; the handiest airport is Cagliari, about two hours away. Mountain roads call for a relaxed pace. Spring and autumn are perfect for hiking; the Trenino Verde usually runs in the warmer months, and October brings the apple festival.
FAQ
How do I reach Ussassai's natural pools?
On foot, along forest trails near the village; best with a guide or local advice.
When does the Trenino Verde stop at Ussassai?
The tourist service usually runs from spring to autumn: check the year's timetable before you go.
How long do I need for Ussassai?
One day for the village, San Salvatore and a hike; two if you add Montarbu or the train.
