Logudoro, Meilogu and Goceano · Città metropolitana di Sassari

Things to do in Codrongianos

What to see in Codrongianos, Sardinia: the striped Romanesque Basilica of Saccargia, Nuraghe Nieddu, village churches and the Holy Trinity festival.

Codrongianos, Sardegna — © Gianni Careddu · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 3.0

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Codrongianos is a small Logudoro village about 20 minutes' drive from Sassari on the road to Olbia. Its name is tied to one of Sardinia's most photographed monuments: the Basilica of the Holy Trinity of Saccargia, whose black-and-white stripes stand out in the countryside. Around it, hills are dotted with nuraghi and Romanesque country churches. It's a perfect stop for lovers of medieval art, archaeology and inland scenery, even as a half-day trip from Sassari or Alghero.

What to see in Codrongianos

The Basilica of Saccargia

A few kilometres from the village, the basilica of Santissima Trinità di Saccargia was founded in 1116 by Costantino I, judge (ruler) of Torres, and his wife Marcusa, and entrusted to Camaldolese monks. It's one of the finest examples of Pisan Romanesque architecture in Sardinia: the facade and bell tower alternate pale limestone and dark basalt, creating its famous two-tone look, with a portico in front. Inside, the apse holds a cycle of medieval frescoes, a rare example of Romanesque painting on the island. Legend says the name comes from a spotted cow (s'acca argia) that used to kneel here in prayer.

Nuraghe Nieddu

The area has around sixty nuraghi. The best preserved is Nuraghe Nieddu ("black"), a single tower of dark basalt about 11 metres high, with a tholos (false dome) roof.

The old village

In the upper village is the parish church of San Paolo, of medieval origin, with 17th-century paintings; in the lower part, the 13th-century Romanesque church of Santa Croce. You can also visit the house of Blessed Elisabetta Sanna, a figure deeply venerated locally, plus the fountains and the churches of the Rosario and Santa Lucia.

Things to do in Codrongianos

Guided visit to Saccargia, to discover its architecture, frescoes and monastic history.
Logudoro Romanesque churches route: from Saccargia you quickly reach other country churches such as San Michele di Salvenero and Santa Maria di Cea.
Walking or cycling among fields, nuraghi and traces of the old Roman road between Cagliari and Porto Torres.
Photography: the basilica at sunset, when the light sets the stone glowing, is a sight to see.

Further down you'll find the tours and excursions offered by local operators: choose yours and book.

History

The area was densely settled in the Bronze Age, as its many nuraghi show. The village grew around the castrum Gordianus, a 3rd-century AD Roman fort guarding the road between Karalis (Cagliari) and Turris Libisonis (Porto Torres); the name later became Cotroianu and finally Codrongianos. In the Middle Ages it belonged to the Giudicato (medieval kingdom) of Torres, and the founding of Saccargia marked its importance. After the Aragonese conquest the monks were expelled and from 1420 the village was given as a fief; it was redeemed in 1839, when feudalism ended.

What to eat and what to buy

The food is classic Logudoro: durum-wheat bread, sheep's cheese, roast meats, home-style soups and sweets made with almonds and honey, with wines from the nearby hills. Take home cheese, bread and traditional sweets from the local villages.

Festivals and traditions

The main celebration is the Santissima Trinità di Saccargia festival, on the Sunday after Pentecost: a procession, religious rites, dancing, improvised poetry contests in Sardinian, folk music and tastings of local produce. Locals speak the northern Logudorese variety of Sardinian.

Nearby

Sassari (about 20 minutes): old town, Rosello fountain and the Sanna Museum.
Ploaghe (about 10 minutes): the country church of San Michele di Salvenero.
Florinas (about 10 minutes): the Pedras Serradas necropolis.
Banari (about 25 minutes): the church of Santa Maria di Cea.
Ozieri (about 40 minutes): San Michele cave and archaeological museum.

Getting there and when to go

Codrongianos lies on the SS597 Sassari-Olbia road. Alghero airport is about 45 minutes' drive away and Olbia about an hour; the nearest port is Porto Torres, about half an hour away. It's worth visiting all year: spring and autumn are ideal for country walks, and the Saccargia festival, between May and June, is the liveliest time.