Things to do in Esterzili

Esterzili (Istersili in Sardinian) is a mountain village of about 550 people some 700 metres up, at the foot of Monte Santa Vittoria, in the Barbagia di Seulo. It's a place of outstanding archaeology: here stands Sa Domu de Orgia, one of the island's most important Nuragic temples, and here the famous Esterzili Tablet was found. From the summit the view takes in half of Sardinia. It suits hikers, history lovers and anyone looking for the most authentic inland Sardinia.

What to see in Esterzili

Sa Domu de Orgia

At about 1,000 metres on the slopes of Santa Vittoria stands this Nuragic temple, built in the second half of the 2nd millennium BC. It's a megaron-type building, with two rooms behind a vestibule inside a sacred enclosure: the most important of its kind in Sardinia. Excavations uncovered several bronze figurines.

The Monte Nuxi sacred well

A Nuragic well temple fed by the Monti 'e Nuxi spring. No fewer than 77 archaeological sites have been recorded locally, including nuraghi (Bronze Age stone towers), giants' tombs and domus de janas (rock-cut tombs).

Churches and village

The church of San Michele, dedicated to the patron saint, dates from the 15th century in Gothic-Aragonese style, with a carved door and bell gable. Sant'Antonio da Padova, from the 17th century, sits on a hill; San Sebastiano stands in its own park. The parish church of Sant'Ignazio da Laconi, from 1972, houses 17th- and 18th-century statues. Several houses in the old centre are painted with murals.

Things to do in Esterzili

The climb up Monte Santa Vittoria, over 1,200 metres high, is the must-do: from the top you can see the Campidano, the Sarcidano, the Gerrei, the Gennargentu and, on clear days, the sea of Ogliastra. The route is demanding but can be combined with a visit to Sa Domu de Orgia. Lower down runs the Trenino Verde heritage railway, with a stop at Betilli in the forest of the same name, and Lake Flumendosa is close by. Find your hike among the experiences offered by local operators, just below.

History

Inhabited since pre-Nuragic times, the area yielded the Esterzili Tablet, a bronze plaque from AD 69 bearing a Roman decree on a land dispute between two peoples, the Patulcenses Campani and the Galillenses: one of the key records of Roman Sardinia. In the Middle Ages the village belonged to the Giudicato of Cagliari (one of Sardinia's medieval kingdoms); it later passed to the Pisans and, around 1324, to the Aragonese. In 1604 it joined the Duchy of Mandas and was bought back in 1839.

Food and local products

• Su frigadòri: an oven-baked onion bread, good hot or cold.
• Is cocoèddas: fried parcels of fresh pasta filled mainly with potato.
• Is cocòis prènas: the baked version, crisp outside.

Festivals and traditions

In mid-August, traditionally on the 12th, the village holds the frigadòri and cocoèddas festival, with Sardinian music and dancing and tastings of the local specialities. San Michele, the patron saint, is also celebrated during the year.

Nearby

• Lake Flumendosa: views and walks.
• Sadali: the San Valentino waterfall right in the village.
• Villanova Tulo: the Adoni nuraghe.
• Seulo: the Sa Stiddiosa waterfall.

Getting there and when to go

Cagliari-Elmas airport is about an hour and three quarters by car, via Mandas and Nurri on winding inland roads. The best season runs from May to October; in summer the mountain cool is a relief, while in winter the peaks may see snow.

FAQ

How hard is the climb up Monte Santa Vittoria?

It's demanding: you'll need hiking boots, water and, if you don't know the area, a guide.

Where is the Esterzili Tablet?

It was found in the municipal territory and is kept in a museum; the village proudly remembers the discovery.

Is Esterzili good for families?

Yes, with the San Sebastiano park and easy walks; for Sa Domu de Orgia it's best if children are used to walking.