Planargia and Montiferru · Provincia di Oristano

Things to do in Bonarcado

Things to see in Bonarcado: the Romanesque basilica of Santa Maria, Bonacattu sanctuary, corridor nuraghi, nougat and cherries.

Bonarcado, Sardegna — © Gianni Careddu · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0

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Bonarcado, home to about 1,500 people, lies at the foot of the Montiferru, some 25 km from Oristano, among oak woods, olive groves, vineyards and orchards fed by fertile, well-watered volcanic soil. It is a key place in Sardinia's medieval history: a Camaldolese abbey was founded here, leaving a superb Romanesque basilica and the Condaghe of Bonarcado, one of the oldest documents written in Sardinian. It is ideal for lovers of sacred art, archaeology and country flavours such as cherries and nougat.

What to see in Bonarcado

Basilica of Santa Maria

Built in the mid-12th century for the Camaldolese monastery founded by the rulers of Arborea, it is made of dark basalt. It was remodelled in the following century and enlarged in the 1700s with a second nave and side chapels. In 2011 it was made a minor basilica.

Sanctuary of Nostra Signora di Bonacattu

Close to the basilica, this small church of Byzantine origin was built partly with materials from a Roman bath house, of which a stretch of mosaic floor remains. In the 13th century it gained a facade with small arches and ceramic bowls; inside is a 15th-century relief of the Madonna. It is one of the oldest Marian shrines on the island.

Corridor nuraghi

Bonarcado has Sardinia's highest concentration of corridor nuraghi, the most archaic type. Most stand on the plateau towards Paulilatino: Campu Scudu, Livandru, Serra Crastula, Sas Losas and Ziligherto, often next to giants' tombs. There are also Neolithic domus de janas rock-cut tombs.

Things to do in Bonarcado

The Montiferru woods invite you to walk among springs and streams: in the forest between Bonarcado and Santu Lussurgiu lies the Sos Molinos waterfall. The nuraghi plateau is great on foot, by mountain bike or on horseback. Come in June for freshly picked cherries; the beaches of S'Archittu and Santa Caterina di Pittinuri are half an hour away. Scroll down for experiences from local operators.

History

Settled since the Neolithic and densely in Nuragic times, the area became a leading religious centre of the Giudicato of Arborea in the Middle Ages. Around the Camaldolese abbey, in the 12th-13th centuries, the condaghe was compiled, a register of donations and deeds describing the economy and society of the time. The basilica hosted a synod in 1253 and a council of bishops in 1302. After the Giudicato fell, the village became an Aragonese fief, and it bought its freedom in 1839.

Food and shopping

Bonarcado is known for torrone (nougat) made with local honey, extra virgin olive oil and cherries. Beef from Montiferru herds is excellent too.

Festivals and traditions

San Sebastiano: January, with a horseback procession and pariglie (riders' acrobatics) through the streets.
San Romualdo, founder of the Camaldolese order: early February.
Cherry festival: June.
Beef festival: early August.
Feast of the Madonna at Bonacattu: mid-September, with the nougat festival.

Nearby

Seneghe, village of olive oil and poetry.
Santu Lussurgiu and San Leonardo de Siete Fuentes.
Santa Cristina in Paulilatino, with its Nuragic sacred well.
Milis, with its churches and citrus groves.

Getting there and when to go

From Oristano, with its station and port, it takes about half an hour; from the SS131 take the Bauladu or Paulilatino exit. Cagliari airport is about an hour and a quarter by car, Alghero about an hour and a half. June, for cherries, and September, for the Bonacattu feast, are the best months.