Things to do in Villaputzu
Things to do in Villaputzu, Sardinia: San Nicola and Quirra castle, Porto Corallo beaches, launeddas music, Flumendosa river mouth, festivals, tips.
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Villaputzu (Biddepùtzi in Sardinian) is a village in the Sarrabus, in south-east Sardinia, built on the plain the Flumendosa river forms just before it reaches the sea. It has long, uncrowded beaches, a marina at Porto Corallo, the ruins of Quirra castle and a rare brick Romanesque church. Above all, it's the home of the launeddas, the ancient three-reed instrument that symbolises Sardinian music. It suits travellers looking for a quiet sea, authentic folk culture and a handy base between Costa Rei and Ogliastra.
What to see in Villaputzu
San Nicola di Quirra
Standing alone in the countryside by the Rio Quirra, the church of San Nicola dates from the 12th–13th century and is one of very few Romanesque churches in Sardinia built in red brick. Its warm colour against the green valley makes it one of the most photographed spots in the Sarrabus.
Quirra castle
On the hill above San Nicola lie the ruins of Quirra castle, built by the rulers of Cagliari at about 300 metres to guard the border. It later became the seat of the Carroz family's county, the subject of many legends. The climb rewards you with wide views over the valley and sea.
The village and the towers
In the village, visit the church of San Giorgio, dedicated to the patron saint, and Santa Brigida, in Catalan Gothic style. On the coast stand the Spanish towers of Porto Corallo and Murtas. The area also has the Nuragic sacred well of Is Pirois and the Sa Pudda nuraghe (a Bronze Age stone tower).
Things to do in Villaputzu
- Hear the launeddas: Villaputzu has a historic school of players, with masters teaching young musicians circular breathing. Watching a performance is unforgettable.
- Sea and boats: boat trips along the Sarrabus coast leave from Porto Corallo marina; in the water you can snorkel, kayak and paddleboard.
- Nature at the Flumendosa mouth: the Sa Praia lagoon and river mouth are good for birdwatching.
- Hikes and bike rides through hills, citrus groves and the Quirra sites.
Just below, you'll find the experiences offered by local operators in Villaputzu and the Sarrabus: take a look and book yours.
Beaches of Villaputzu
Porto Corallo
About 4 kilometres from the village, this beach sits beside the marina beneath the Aragonese tower. Light sand and clear water; convenient if you arrive by boat or want facilities close by.
Su Prumari and the river-mouth beach
Close to the village, the long beach called Su Prumari ("the first beach") stretches towards the mouth of the Flumendosa: wide, open and roomy even in summer.
Porto Tramatzu and Murtas
Porto Tramatzu has fine sand framed by Mediterranean scrub. Further north, Murtas (or Quirra) beach is long and wild, but access is only partial because of the military range.
History
Nuraghi and a sacred well bear witness to the Nuragic age. The mouth of the Flumendosa was probably the site of Sarcapos, a Phoenician-Punic and later Roman port. During early medieval raids, people moved to today's more defensible site. In the Middle Ages the village belonged to the Giudicato (medieval Sardinian kingdom) of Cagliari, then Pisa and, from 1324, the Aragonese; in 1363 it was granted to the Carroz family within the county, later marquisate, of Quirra. After centuries of Barbary raids, it became a self-governing town in 1839. Since 1956 part of its territory has hosted the Salto di Quirra military range.
What to eat and buy
Try culurgionis (filled pasta sealed with a wheat-ear pleat), malloreddus (semolina dumplings), roast meat and fish, and sweets such as pardulas (ricotta pastries) and pabassinas (raisin and almond biscuits). The Flumendosa plain is famous for its citrus fruit. Local crafts include textiles, wicker baskets, wood and ceramics.
Festivals and traditions
- Sant'Antonio Abate, in January, with traditional bonfires.
- Sarrabus carnival, in February or March.
- San Giorgio, the patron saint, in May.
- Launeddas festival and the Madonna del mare (Our Lady of the Sea) festival, in August.
- Canti di canne, a launeddas concert in San Giorgio church on 26 December.
Nearby
- Muravera, a few minutes away, with the beaches and lagoons of the Sarrabus.
- San Vito, another launeddas village, just inland.
- Costa Rei, about 30 minutes away, with long white beaches.
- Castiadas, with its former penal colony and the coast of Cala Sinzias.
Getting there and when to go
The nearest airport is Cagliari-Elmas, about an hour's drive along the new SS125; Cagliari port is also about an hour away, and Arbatax port about an hour to the north. June to September is best for the sea, and August brings the launeddas festival; spring is ideal for walks around Quirra and blossoming citrus groves, winter for the Sant'Antonio bonfires and the 26 December concert.
Frequently asked questions
What are launeddas?
A Sardinian wind instrument made of three reeds, played with circular breathing so the sound never stops. Villaputzu is one of the most important centres of this tradition.
How many days do you need for Villaputzu?
One day covers Quirra and the village; two or three days let you add the beach and a boat trip.
Is Villaputzu good for families?
Yes: wide, quiet beaches and a relaxed pace make it a good choice for holidays with children.
