Things to do in Fonni

Fonni is Sardinia's highest municipality: the village sits at about 1,000 metres on the northern slopes of the Gennargentu, in the Barbagia di Ollolai, about 35 minutes' drive from Nuoro. It is the island's snow resort, with the Bruncu Spina and Monte Spada ski lifts, but also a village steeped in history, with a large Baroque basilica, lanes decorated with murals and one of Sardinia's oldest carnivals. It is perfect if you love mountains in every season, Nuragic archaeology and authentic Barbagia traditions.

What to see in Fonni

The basilica of the Madonna dei Martiri

This is the village's landmark. Construction began in 1708 next to the Franciscan convent founded in 1610, and the church is surrounded by cumbessias, small houses that once lodged pilgrims. Inside, look out for the frescoes, the silver reliquaries and the underground sanctuary. Outside the village there is also the country sanctuary of the Madonna del Monte.

The old town and its murals

In the old quarters, stone mountain houses, some roofed with scandulas (traditional wooden shingles), alternate with murals depicting shepherd life, festivals and local history. Walking these lanes is like leafing through an illustrated book of the Barbagia.

The Nuragic complex of Gremanu

Just outside the village, the Nuragic sanctuary of Gremanu, inhabited between the 15th and 9th centuries BC, preserves temples, huts and, above all, the only Nuragic "aqueduct" known in Sardinia, a stone channel system to collect and carry water. The Madau giants' tombs are nearby, and the area has dozens of nuraghi, menhirs and domus de janas rock-cut tombs.

Things to do in Fonni

Fonni is the ideal base for experiencing the Gennargentu up close.

• Skiing and snow: in winter, when there is enough snow, the lifts of Bruncu Spina and Monte Spada, above 1,800 metres, let you ski with views over the island; check conditions before you go.
• Hiking: from spring to autumn trails climb towards Bruncu Spina and the highest peaks, past pastures, springs and sweeping views.
• Horse riding and 4x4 tours: tracks and uplands are perfect for days in the saddle or off-road with local experts.
• Archaeology: guided visits to Gremanu and the giants' tombs.
• Shepherd culture: lunches with shepherds, cheeses and roast meats, stories of transhumance.

Further down you will find the experiences offered by operators in Fonni and the Gennargentu: from hikes to off-road days, pick yours and book.

History

The area has been inhabited since prehistory and was an important Nuragic centre, as Gremanu and the many nuraghi show. In Roman times the road station of Sorabile stood here, on the route crossing the interior. In the Middle Ages Fonni shared the fortunes of the Barbagia di Ollolai, passing from the Giudicato of Arborea to the Aragonese. In the 17th and 18th centuries the Franciscans built the convent and basilica, turning the village into a place of devotion for the whole island. Today Fonni lives on sheep farming, crafts and mountain tourism.

What to eat and buy

Fonni is famous for its savoiardi, light sponge biscuits made to a local recipe. Meals follow the Barbagia tradition: pecorino cheeses, ricotta, cured meats, roast lamb and suckling pig, pane carasau flatbread. To take home: savoiardi, cheeses and traditional crafts such as textiles and woodwork.

Festivals and traditions

• Sant'Antonio Abate (mid-January): bonfires and the first appearance of the masks.
• Carnival: the Urthos, men dressed as bears in animal skins, parade with the Buttudos, who keep them in check with chains. It is one of Sardinia's most archaic carnivals.
• Sos Martires and Santu Juvanne (June): the feasts of the Madonna dei Martiri and St John the Baptist, with costumed processions and the Palio di San Giovanni horse race.
• Palio di Fonni (first Sunday of August): a horse race between villages, held since 1985.
• Autunno in Barbagia: in autumn the village opens its homes and courtyards to visitors.

Nearby

• Lake Gusana and Gavoi: a lake among the woods and a granite village, minutes away.
• Mamoiada: the Mamuthones and the mask museum, about 20 minutes away.
• Desulo: over the Tascusì pass, with its costumes and trails to Punta La Marmora.
• Orgosolo: the village of murals, towards the Supramonte.
• Nuoro: museums and Monte Ortobene, about 35 minutes away.

Getting there and when to go

Fonni is about 35 minutes from Nuoro; Olbia airport is about an hour and a half away, Cagliari just over two hours via the SS131 and then inland roads. In winter, with snow, you will need chains or winter tyres. Summer is cool and great for hiking, June and August for festivals, winter for snow and carnival.

Frequently asked questions

Can you really ski in Fonni?

Yes, when snowfall allows, the Bruncu Spina and Monte Spada lifts open. The season depends heavily on the weather, so check before you travel.

When can I see the Urthos and Buttudos?

During carnival and, traditionally, already at the Sant'Antonio bonfires in January.

How many days do I need for Fonni?

One day for the village, the basilica and Gremanu; two or three to add hiking or snow on the Gennargentu.

Is Fonni good for families?

Yes: winter snow, summer meadows and walks, and lively festivals are a hit with children.