Things to do in Orotelli

Orotelli sits on the granite plateau of sa Serra, halfway between Nuoro and Macomer, about 18 km from Nuoro. It belongs to the Borghi Autentici d'Italia network and is known across the island for the Thurpos, the haunting masks of its carnival, and for a Romanesque church that was briefly a bishop's seat. Ideal if you love Barbagia carnivals, archaeology and stone villages far from mass tourism.

What to see in Orotelli

San Giovanni Battista and the old centre

On one of the highest points in town stands the parish church of San Giovanni Battista, built around 1116 and the temporary seat of the bishops of Ottana from 1116 to 1139, while their cathedral was being built. It is Romanesque in origin, faced in trachyte, with a 14th-century bell tower decorated in bas-relief. A few steps away is the 18th-century granite church of San Lussorio; the 16th-century church of Santissimo Salvatore now stands inside the cemetery.

Country churches

Out in the countryside you will find San Pietro di Oddini and the sanctuary of Nostra Signora di Sinne.

Nuraghi, dolmens and giants' tombs

• The Aeddos nuraghe, built of huge granite blocks, one of the best preserved in the Nuoro area.
• The Càlone nuraghe, on the hill at the entrance to the village.
• The Sinne dolmen and the giants' tombs of Forolo and sa Turre 'e su Campanile.
• In the sa Serra park, a nuraghe with a three-lobed bastion.

Things to do in Orotelli

The sa Serra park, north of the village, blends nature and prehistory and is perfect for walks and mountain-bike rides among granite boulders and nuraghi. In the countryside, the warm sulphurous waters of sos Banzos bubble up. Craft lovers can discover the work of cobblers who hand-make cambales, the shepherds' leather boots. Below you will find the experiences offered by local operators: pick yours and get to know Orotelli up close.

History

Orotelli has Nuragic origins and is already mentioned in the 12th century in the Condaghe of Santa Maria di Bonarcado. In the Middle Ages it belonged to the Giudicato of Torres and then to Arborea; it later passed to the Aragonese, joined the Marquisate of Orani in 1617 and was freed from feudal rule in 1839. The village has two parts: the old centre around the parish church and the newer Mussinzua district.

What to eat and buy

Orotelli has a long tradition of growing wheat, the basis of local breads, and shepherd cooking with cheese and meat. Take home leather goods such as cambales and stone crafts.

Festivals and traditions

• Carnival: it opens with the Sant'Antonio bonfires in mid-January and runs until Shrove Tuesday. The Thurpos («the blind ones») wear black hooded orbace (heavy wool) coats and faces blackened with soot from the bonfires: they stand for the bond between man and animal, master and servant. Along with Mamoiada and Ottana, Orotelli has one of Barbagia's most significant carnivals.
• San Giovanni Battista, the patron saint, late August.
• Autunno in Barbagia, November.

The village also keeps alive canto a tenore, Sardinian polyphonic singing, in its own local style.

Nearby

• Oniferi, with the Sas Concas and Brodu necropolises.
• Ottana and the cathedral of San Nicola.
• Orani and the Nivola Museum.
• Nuoro, with the Costume Museum and Monte Ortobene.

Getting there and when to go

From Nuoro it is about 20 minutes along the SS 129; the village also has a stop on the Macomer–Nuoro railway. The nearest airports are Olbia and Alghero, each roughly an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half away. Come at carnival for the Thurpos; for hiking, spring and autumn are best.

FAQ

When can you see the Thurpos?

During carnival, from the Sant'Antonio bonfires in mid-January to Shrove Tuesday, especially on Sundays and the final days.

How long do you need for Orotelli?

Half a day for churches and nuraghi; a full day if you add a walk in sa Serra.

Is Orotelli near the sea?

No, it is inland; the nearest coast is about an hour's drive away.