Things to do in Ottana

Ottana lies on the plain of the middle Tirso valley, in the heart of Sardinia, about 25 km from Nuoro and a few minutes from the SS 131 DCN highway. It is famous all over the island for its carnival, with the wooden masks of the Boes and Merdules, and for San Nicola, one of Sardinia's finest Romanesque cathedrals. A great stop if you love medieval art, archaeology and the island's oldest traditions.

What to see in Ottana

The cathedral of San Nicola

In the centre stands San Nicola, consecrated in 1160 and for centuries the cathedral of the medieval diocese of Ottana. Its façade alternates dark basalt and pinkish trachyte, a play of colours typical of Sardinian Romanesque. Inside is the Ottana polyptych, painted in the 14th century, which also portrays Judge Mariano IV of Arborea. Next door is the 15th-century church of Santa Maria.

Archaeology

• The Talinos complex, with a tholos (corbelled-dome) nuraghe and huts.
• The Bidinnannari site, with a nuraghe, village and tombs.
• The Marasorighes nuraghe and the megalithic wall of Monte Nieddu.
• The domus de janas (rock-cut tombs) of Sorgosio, the sacred well of Zuncos and the Roman bath ruins of Banzos.

Things to do in Ottana

Besides visiting San Nicola, you can plan an archaeological tour of the nuraghi and tombs of the Tirso valley, by car or by bike along country roads. Craft lovers can step into workshops where the carnival's wooden masks are carved. The Tirso river, which a little further south forms Lake Omodeo, is a pleasant backdrop for nature walks. Below you will find the experiences offered by local operators: choose yours and discover Ottana with a local guide.

History

The area has been inhabited since pre-Nuragic times and was an important centre in the Roman era. In the Middle Ages Ottana was the seat of a district of the Giudicato of Torres and of a bishopric, later merged with Alghero in the early 16th century. It passed to Arborea and then to the Aragonese, remaining a fief until 1839. In the 1970s the plain hosted a large textile and petrochemical complex that never delivered on its promises; today the village is focusing again on farming, sheep rearing and crafts.

What to eat and buy

Local specialities include pane fresa flatbread, sos cogones (oven-baked stuffed pastries) and s'angule, the village's signature sweet, born as a votive offering. The most original souvenir is a hand-carved Merdule mask.

Festivals and traditions

• Sant'Antonio abate bonfires, mid-January: the masks' first outing. Carnival then runs until Shrove Tuesday.
• Carnival: the Merdules, in wooden masks with distorted human features, lead and tame the Boes, men dressed as oxen in sheepskins, horned masks and cowbells; with them walks the Filonzana, a female figure spinning wool, a symbol of fate.
• Holy Week, with the rite of s'Iscravamentu accompanied by tenore singing.
• Santu Nigola, the patron saint, late May.
• Assumption, 15 August, and Autunno in Barbagia.

Nearby

• Orotelli, with its Thurpos carnival.
• Oniferi and the Sas Concas necropolis.
• Sarule and the Gonare sanctuary.
• Nuoro, with the Costume Museum and Grazia Deledda's house.

Getting there and when to go

Ottana is close to the SS 131 DCN, linking Abbasanta with Nuoro and Olbia. Olbia airport is about an hour and a half away; Alghero and Cagliari about an hour and a half and two hours. Spring and autumn are the most pleasant seasons, as summer on the plain is very hot. For carnival, come between January and February.

FAQ

When can you see the Ottana carnival?

The masks first appear at the Sant'Antonio bonfires in mid-January and return on carnival Sundays and days through to Shrove Tuesday.

How long do you need for Ottana?

Half a day for San Nicola and an archaeological site; a full day if you add Orotelli or Sarule.

Is Ottana near the sea?

No, it is in the centre of the island; the nearest coast is about an hour's drive away.