Things to do in Illorai
Things to do in Illorai, Sardinia: Molia rock-cut tombs, nuraghi, the Pont'Ezzu bridge on the Tirso, giant oaks and the Madonna della Neve feast.
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Illorai is a village of about 700 people in the Goceano area, at roughly 500 metres, overlooking the upper Tirso valley, Sardinia's longest river. It boasts one of the island's largest prehistoric tombs, an old bridge over the Tirso and woods of monumental oaks. It suits travellers who love archaeology, ancient trees and authentic Sardinia far from the crowds.
What to see in Illorai
Molia necropolis
Nine domus de janas («fairy houses», rock-cut tombs) about five thousand years old. Tomb VII, with a corridor and 16 chambers, is among the largest and most remarkable underground tombs in Sardinia, with traces of red decoration and architectural details carved in the rock.
Lucche and Iscretti nuraghi
Nuraghe Lucche is a single tower with a tholos (corbelled stone dome). Nuraghe Iscretti is a multi-tower complex with a sacred spring nearby. A Nuragic bronze bull found here is now in the Sanna Museum in Sassari.
Pont'Ezzu
The «old bridge», also called the devil's bridge, spans the Tirso; it has ancient origins and was rebuilt by the Pisans in the Middle Ages.
Churches
The parish church of San Gavino holds statues of the patron saint, Saint Barbara, Saint Augustine and Saint Nicholas of Tolentino, plus silverware from the Augustinian convent that once stood in the village. Out in the countryside is the sanctuary of the Madonna della Neve, with older churches beside it.
Things to do in Illorai
This is walking country. Iscuvudè park has centuries-old holm oaks and downy oaks with holly and wild cherry; at Sa Cariasa the «trail of the great trees» leads, at Melabrina, to a giant downy oak regarded as one of the largest in Europe. Monte Bassu and Monte Artu mix woods and meadows, and the Tirso valley is great for walks and bike rides. At Sos Banzos there are thermal springs. Browse the local operators' experiences below to explore the Goceano with a guide.
History
The Molia tombs and the nuraghi tell of a long prehistoric presence. In the Middle Ages Illorai belonged to the Giudicato of Torres, in the Goceano district; it then passed to the Doria, the Malaspina, Arborea and finally the Aragonese crown. It bought itself out of feudalism in 1839. The village also had an Augustinian convent, closed under Spanish rule.
Food and souvenirs
Illorai is known for its vegetable gardens in the fertile Tirso valley. Cooking is Goceano shepherd fare: sheep's cheese, ricotta, roast meats and homemade bread.
Festivals and traditions
The most heartfelt feast is the Madonna della Neve, one of Sardinia's «long feasts»: it is held on the Monday after Pentecost and in early August, preceded by novenas at the country sanctuary. The patron saint, San Gavino, is celebrated in late October.
Nearby
- Burgos: the Goceano castle and the Museum of Sardinian Castles.
- Bottidda: the old Franciscan convent on Monte Rasu.
- Bono and the Sos Nibberos yew forest.
- Benetutti: the spa waters of the Tirso valley.
Getting there and when to go
Olbia and Alghero airports are each about an hour and a half by car. The 131 DCN expressway runs along the Tirso valley, close to the village. Spring and autumn are best for woods and trails; in summer the shady areas stay cool.
FAQ
How long do I need in Illorai?
A day for Molia, the Pont'Ezzu and a walk among the great trees.
Can I visit the Molia tombs?
The site lies within the municipality; ask locally or go with a guide.
Is Illorai good for families?
Yes, especially for nature lovers: the trails among the giant trees are easy and memorable.
