Things to do in Bidonì
Things to see in Bidonì on Lake Omodeo: a Roman temple of Jupiter, the witch's house museum, Romanesque churches, canoeing and hiking.
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Bidonì is a tiny village in the Barigadu district, home to just over a hundred people, perched on a hill at about 260 metres above the eastern shore of Lake Omodeo. Cobbled lanes, red trachyte houses and a surprising wealth of archaeology make it a treat for curious travellers. It suits hikers, mountain bikers and canoeists, and anyone intrigued by tales of witches and the Inquisition in old Sardinia. It belongs to the Borghi autentici d'Italia (Authentic Villages of Italy) network.
What to see in Bidonì
Temple of Jupiter at S'Onnariu
On the hill of S'Onnariu, north of the village, excavations uncovered a small Roman temple from the 1st century BC, dedicated to Jupiter according to inscriptions on an altar. It is a rare example of a Roman sanctuary in rural Sardinia.
Sa 'Omo 'e sa Majarza
The "witch's house" is a small museum about witchcraft and Inquisition trials on the island: an unusual window onto the beliefs and fears of rural society.
Churches
The little Romanesque church of San Pietro, from the 12th century, stands on the site of a Benedictine monastery and holds an early medieval funerary inscription. The country sanctuary of Santa Maria di Ossolo, founded in the 13th century and rebuilt in 1632, hosts the September feast. The parish church in the village is San Giovanni Battista.
Archaeology
Look for the domus de janas of Pera Pintore (rock-cut tombs, "fairy houses" in Sardinian) and the Bentosu nuraghe; other Nuragic remains lie under the lake.
Things to do in Bidonì
Lake Omodeo is right below: canoeing and kayaking, lakeside walks and birdwatching in an area visited by herons, ducks and birds of prey. Trails through holm and downy oaks are great for hiking and mountain biking, with views over the water and the Marghine mountains. Scroll down for experiences from local operators and book your day on the lake.
History
The area was inhabited in Nuragic and Roman times. In the Middle Ages the village grew around a Benedictine monastery; under the Aragonese it joined the marquisate of San Vittorio, ruled by the Todde and then the Pes families, until it bought its freedom when feudalism ended in 1839. Today it shares a scattered-hospitality project with neighbouring Sorradile.
Food and shopping
Cooking here is simple and full of flavour. The signature dish is culurzones de patata, potato-filled ravioli, alongside lamb, sheep's cheese and homemade bread.
Festivals and traditions
- Sagra de s'Anzone (lamb festival): Easter Monday, in the Istei pine wood by the lake.
- San Giovanni Battista, the patron saint: late June.
- Santa Maria di Ossolo: early September, with a procession from the country sanctuary to the village.
Nearby
- Sorradile, a neighbouring lakeside village.
- Ghilarza and the church of San Pietro di Zuri across the lake.
- Soddì, with trunks from a fossil forest.
- Fordongianus, with Roman baths on the Tirso river.
Getting there and when to go
From Oristano it takes about 50 minutes; from the SS131 highway take the Abbasanta exit and follow the lake. Cagliari and Alghero airports are about an hour and a half by car. Spring and autumn are perfect for walking; Easter Monday and late June are the liveliest times.
FAQ
How long do I need for Bidonì?
Half a day for the village, museum and temple; a full day with an outing on the lake.
Is Bidonì family-friendly?
Yes: the witch's house fascinates kids and the lakeside walks are easy.
Where is the temple of Jupiter?
On the hill of S'Onnariu, just north of the village.
