Things to do in Neoneli

Neoneli, Neunele in Sardinian, is a village of about six hundred people among the green hills of the Barigadu, near Lake Omodeo and about 50 km from Oristano. It's known for its tenore choir, for the woods of the Assai Oasis, home to red and fallow deer, and for fregula istuvada, the village's signature dish. It's perfect if you're after nature, traditional music and the warm welcome of a small inland village.

What to see in Neoneli

The trachyte old centre

The houses are built of local red trachyte, with Aragonese-style windows and basalt decorations: a little gem to explore on foot, at an easy pace.

The church of San Pietro

The parish church, built in 1611, has a pink trachyte façade. Inside are a 15th-century silver monstrance and two wooden statues.

The Assai Oasis

Almost a thousand hectares on the slopes of Monte Santa Vittoria, covered in ancient holm and cork oaks, where fallow and red deer live. The small oasis museum displays Sardinian mammals and birds, including a golden eagle.

Domus de janas and nuraghi

The area has Neolithic rock-cut tombs, the domus de janas, at Puleu, Pranu-Sasa and su Angiu, and the remains of the Nocurreli, Olisetzo and Pruna nuraghi.

Things to do in Neoneli

Walk the Assai woods to spot deer, go hiking among hills and cork oaks with views of Lake Omodeo, and visit the workshops where cork, leather and wrought iron are still worked by hand. If you're here for a festival, hear canto a tenore live. Discover the experiences offered by local operators below and book yours.

History

People have lived here since pre-Nuragic and Nuragic times. The village appears in the late Middle Ages as villa di Leunelli and belonged to the Parte Barigadu district of the Giudicato of Arborea. After 1420 it passed to Aragon and was held by various feudal families; in 1774 it became a marquisate granted to Pietro Ripoll, passing to the Sanjust family in 1837. In 1839, when feudalism was abolished, it was bought back.

What to eat and buy

The signature dish is fregula istuvada: fregola cooked in broth and layered with pecorino and lard. Also try cassola and traditional sweets: Carnival tzipulas, amarettus, seadas and sospiri, almond-paste sweets served at weddings and ceremonies. To take home: handmade cork and leather goods.

Festivals and traditions

Neoneli is home to the Coro di Neoneli, a canto a tenore quartet that has worked with Francesco Guccini and Elio e le Storie Tese; in processions you'll also hear a cuncordu singing.

• Carnival: ancient rites with the sos Corriolos masks, a bonfire and dancing in the square.
• Sant'Antioco (two weeks after Easter).
• Sant'Angelo (August): a multi-day country festival at s'Angelu, with a procession and shows.
• Licanìas and the fregula istuvada and cassola festival (late September–early October): culture, literature and local flavours.

Nearby

• Nughedu Santa Vittoria: the Sas Arzolas de Goi necropolis and the church of San Giacomo.
• Ardauli: the Mandras necropolis and San Quirico by the lake.
• Busachi: the costume and linen museum.
• Lake Omodeo: Sardinia's largest reservoir.

Getting there and when to go

From Oristano it takes about an hour: leave the SS131 towards Ghilarza and follow the Barigadu roads. The handiest airport is Cagliari-Elmas, about an hour and three quarters away; Alghero and Olbia are about an hour and a half to two hours. Spring and autumn are ideal for the woods and hiking; autumn also brings Licanìas and the food festival.

Frequently asked questions

Where can I see deer near Neoneli?

In the Assai Oasis, on the slopes of Monte Santa Vittoria, home to red and fallow deer.

What is fregula istuvada?

Neoneli's typical dish: fregola cooked in broth and layered with pecorino and lard.

Is Neoneli good for families?

Yes: the village is peaceful, and children love the oasis museum and animals.