Things to do in Furtei
What to see in Furtei, Sardinia: Santa Barbara church, the little church of Nuraxi, Holy Week rites, traditional feasts and nearby Sanluri.
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Furtei is a small farming village on the western slope of a hill, between the Medio Campidano and the Marmilla, about 40 km from Cagliari and a few minutes from Sanluri. It has no grand monuments, but it keeps deeply felt Holy Week rites, a palm tradition born from a 17th-century peace treaty and a calendar of feasts that runs through the whole year. It's a stop for anyone looking for rural Sardinia and its religious traditions.
What to see in Furtei
Church of Santa Barbara
The parish church is dedicated to the patron saint. Its bronze central portal, by artist Gianni Argiolas, was paid for by local donations; inside is a painting of the Crucifixion, linked to the rites held on the Friday before Easter.
The little church of Nuraxi
Just outside the village stands a small 13th-century church linked to the cult of San Biagio (Saint Blaise). It was the parish church of Nuraxi, a village that no longer exists, and it hosts the autumn feast of San Narciso.
Other churches and nuraghi
The village also has the churches of Santa Maria and San Sebastiano. In the countryside lie the ruins of five nuraghi, Sardinia's Bronze Age stone towers.
Things to do in Furtei
The best way to get to know Furtei is through its festivals, especially Holy Week, and by walking or cycling the country roads among wheat fields and hills. The village is close to Sanluri castle and the archaeological sites of the Marmilla, easy to combine in a day. See the experiences offered by local operators below.
History
In the Middle Ages Furtei belonged to the Giudicato of Cagliari; it later passed to Arborea, Pisa and, around 1324–1328, Aragon. In 1414 the barony of Furtei was created and granted to Michele Sanjust, whose family held it until feudalism was abolished in 1839. Tradition says that in 1605 the baron ended the quarrels between Furtei and Nuraxi by giving each village a palm branch. A gold mine operated in the area between 1997 and 2008 and is now closed.
Food and shopping
The cooking is Campidano farm food: semolina bread, soups, meat and cheese. In autumn, at the feast of San Narciso, roasted chestnuts and new wine are served.
Festivals and traditions
- San Sebastiano (19 January): bonfires in each neighbourhood.
- San Biagio (3 February): blessing of candles.
- Holy Week: from the palm procession, when the mayor hands the palm to the parish priest on Palm Sunday, to su Scravamentu (the Deposition) on Good Friday and s'Incontru, the Easter meeting of the Risen Christ and the Madonna.
- Sant'Isidoro (mid-May): farmers' feast.
- San Biagio (late August): procession bringing the saint back.
- Santa Maria (second week of September): the main feast, with a week of celebrations.
- San Narciso (late October): a rosary sung in Sardinian by alternating choirs.
- Santa Barbara (4 December): the patron saint.
Around Furtei
- Sanluri (about 5 km): the medieval castle and the Sa Battalla area.
- Segariu (about 3 km): the four-lobed Sant'Antonio nuraghe.
- Serrenti: the Monti Mannu viewpoint park.
- Villanovafranca: the Su Mulinu nuraghe and museum.
Getting there and when to go
Cagliari's airport and port are about 45 minutes by car via the SS 131 to Sanluri or Serrenti. Holy Week is the most intense time; September, with the Santa Maria feast, and spring are ideal for the countryside.
FAQ
Why is Holy Week in Furtei special?
For its traditional rites, such as su Scravamentu and s'Incontru, and for the palm ceremony recalling the 1605 peace.
How long do you need for Furtei?
A couple of hours for the village; pair it with Sanluri and Segariu for a full day.
Is Furtei by the sea?
No, it lies inland; the nearest sea is at Cagliari, about 50 minutes away.
