Things to do in Ardara

Ardara is a small village in Logudoro, north-west Sardinia, about 35 minutes by car from Sassari on the road to Olbia. Today it has only a few hundred residents, yet in the Middle Ages it was one of the seats of the judges of Torres, the rulers of one of Sardinia's four medieval kingdoms. That past left behind one of the finest and most imposing Romanesque churches on the island. It's a perfect stop if you love medieval history, sacred art and slow travel through the countryside.

What to see in Ardara

Santa Maria del Regno

The village's landmark is the basilica of Santa Maria del Regno (Our Lady of the Kingdom), the palace chapel of the judges of Torres, completed in the early 12th century by builders from Pisa. Made of dark trachyte, it has the sober, solemn lines of Sardinian Romanesque. Royal weddings, coronations and funerals took place here: in 1238 Queen Adelasia of Torres married Enzo of Swabia, son of Emperor Frederick II. Inside, look for the main retablo, a huge 16th-century painted altarpiece considered one of the largest in Sardinia; Adelasia's tomb was identified in the crypt.

The ruins of the royal palace

Next to the church stood the royal palace, home of the court and government. A tower stump about twelve metres high and a few stretches of wall survive, and they appear on the village coat of arms.

Nuraghi and countryside

The area also preserves Nuragic remains, such as the Burghidu nuraghe, set among pastures and fields.

Things to do in Ardara

Take your time: a morning for the basilica and the village, then a walk or a bike ride along the country lanes of Logudoro, dotted with lonely Romanesque churches and nuraghi. Ardara is a quiet base for a medieval church route across northern Sardinia and for tasting cheese and produce from local farms. Scroll down to discover the experiences offered by local operators and book yours.

History

Inhabited since Nuragic times, the area rose to importance in the 11th and 12th centuries, when the judges of Torres moved part of their court here, away from the unhealthy coast and sea raids. When Adelasia died around 1259 the kingdom collapsed, and Ardara passed to the Doria family, then to Arborea and finally to the Aragonese, who made it a fief. From the 1600s it belonged to the marquisate of Mores until feudalism was abolished in 1839.

Food and shopping

This is farming and sheep country, so expect the classic flavours of Logudoro: pecorino cheese, ricotta, lamb, homemade bread and almond sweets. The best souvenir is a cheese bought straight from a farm.

Festivals and traditions

The most heartfelt festival is Nostra Signora del Regno in early May, with a procession accompanied by gosos, traditional hymns sung in Sardinian. Other feasts are San Pietro in June, the village's mid-August celebrations and Santa Croce in September.

Nearby

• Sant'Antioco di Bisarcio (Ozieri): a large, isolated Romanesque basilica a few minutes' drive away.
• Ozieri: an elegant old town and the San Michele cave, which gave its name to the prehistoric Ozieri culture.
• Santissima Trinità di Saccargia (Codrongianos): the famous black-and-white striped church.
• Ploaghe: the church of San Michele di Salvennor and the Spano picture collection.

Getting there and when to go

Ardara lies on the SS 597 Sassari–Olbia road. The nearest airports are Alghero and Olbia, each about an hour's drive; the nearest ports are Porto Torres and Olbia. Spring is the best time, with green fields and the May festival, followed by mild autumn.

FAQ

How long do you need to visit Ardara?

Two or three hours are enough for the basilica and the village; add the surroundings and you'll fill a full day.

Is Ardara near the sea?

No, it's inland: the closest beaches, on the Sassari and Porto Torres coast, are about 45 minutes away by car.

Why is Ardara important in Sardinian history?

It was one of the seats of the judges of Torres, and its palace chapel hosted the ceremonies of the ruling dynasty.