Things to do in Bessude
Things to do in Bessude, Sardinia: Gothic churches of San Martino and San Leonardo, murals, domus de janas and handmade ciciones pasta.
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Bessude is a small village of fewer than 400 people in the Meilogu, about 30 km from Sassari, tucked into a valley facing Monte Pelao, between Thiesi and Siligo. Its old centre dates back to the 1200s and keeps stone houses with Spanish-style decorated lintels and several façades painted with murals. It's a place for those who want peace, Gothic churches, walks among olive groves and woods, and food made by hand by local women.
What to see in Bessude
Churches
The parish church of San Martino, at the highest point of the village, is Gothic and dates from the early 1600s. San Leonardo, the oldest church and the former parish church, is a fine late-Gothic example with a gabled façade, a bell gable and original cross vaults. At the entrance to the village, Santa Croce (Santa Rughe in Sardinian) has been restored and hosts exhibitions and events. In the countryside stands Santa Maria della Natività, which locals call Nostra Segnora de Runaghes.
Archaeology
On the border with Thiesi and Ittiri lie the domus de janas (prehistoric rock-cut tombs) of S'Ena de Cannuia, with carvings and ochre decoration. The San Teodoro nuraghe is close to the village.
The village and its murals
Wandering the lanes you'll notice arched lintels and murals painted on the houses. Two small streams run through the village.
Things to do in Bessude
This is walking country: the Littu wood, the olive groves of Su Monte, the poplars of Pojos and the Pumàri e Badde valley offer peaceful routes through Meilogu nature, on foot or by bike. It's also an easy base for trips to the area's extinct craters and nuraghi. Take a look at the experiences offered by local operators below and plan your day.
History
The area has been inhabited since prehistory and Nuragic times, with Roman and medieval remains too. Today's village grew up in the 13th century within the Judicate of Torres; it then passed to the Doria family and the Aragonese, was struck by plague in the 1500s and in 1636 became part of the marquisate of Montemaggiore. When feudalism ended in 1839 it became an independent municipality.
What to eat and buy
The signature dish is ciciones, tiny semolina gnocchi made by hand by the village women, celebrated at a festival together with almonds. The surrounding area produces olive oil and sheep's cheese.
Festivals and traditions
- Nostra Segnora de Runaghes, in late August, at the country church.
- San Martino, the patron saint, in mid-November.
- Sagra de sos ciciones e de sa mendula, celebrating handmade pasta and almonds.
Nearby
- Thiesi, with the painted tombs of Mandra Antine.
- Siligo, with Nostra Signora di Mesumundu and the Maria Carta museum.
- Banari, with the Romanesque church of Santa Maria di Cea.
- Bonnanaro and the Monte Arana sanctuary.
Getting there and when to go
Bessude lies on the provincial road between Thiesi and Siligo; the SS 131 is about 7 km away via Siligo. The nearest airport is Alghero-Fertilia, around 50 minutes by car, and the nearest port is Porto Torres. Buses run to Sassari. Spring and autumn are best for walking; in late August and November the festivals liven things up.
FAQ
How long do you need for Bessude?
A couple of hours for the village and churches; half a day with a walk in the surroundings.
What are ciciones?
Handmade semolina gnocchi typical of Bessude.
Is Bessude good for travelling with kids?
Yes: it's quiet, safe and surrounded by easy-to-explore nature.
