Things to do in Thiesi
Things to do in Thiesi, Sardinia: the painted tombs of Mandra Antine, Santa Vittoria church, Seunis sanctuary, Aligi Sassu and pecorino.
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Thiesi is a village of around 2,700 people in the Meilogu, in north-west Sardinia, roughly 40 km from Sassari and 50 km from Alghero. Across the island it is known as the capital of sheep's cheese, but there is much more here: a prehistoric necropolis with painted tombs, a Gothic-Aragonese church, a Marian sanctuary overlooking the valley, and the living memory of the 1800 uprising against feudal rule, told in paint by the artist Aligi Sassu. It suits travellers who love archaeology, art, genuine food and the volcanic landscapes of inland Sardinia.
What to see in Thiesi
The old town and the church of Santa Vittoria
The heart of the village is the parish church of Santa Vittoria, built between the 1400s and the late 1500s in Gothic-Aragonese style, with a Renaissance doorway and interior details. Nearby you'll find the 17th-century church of Sant'Antonio, the church of San Sebastiano and the old Aragonese tower-prison, still used as a jail under Savoy rule.
Sanctuary of the Madonna di Seunis
On the edge of the village, on a rocky spur above the Rio Molinu valley, is the sanctuary of Nostra Signora di Seunis, dating from the 18th century and still a pilgrimage site.
Mandra Antine necropolis
About 10 km from the village, four domus de janas (prehistoric tombs cut into the rock) are carved into a trachyte ridge. Tomb III, the “painted tomb”, still shows coloured decoration from the 3rd millennium BC, a rarity in Sardinia.
Thiesi and Aligi Sassu
The painter Aligi Sassu, whose family came from Thiesi, left several works here: the large mural “L'anno dell'assalto” (The Year of the Assault) about the 1800 revolt, plus a ceramic and a fresco in local schools.
Things to do in Thiesi
The countryside is ideal for walks among volcanic hills, nuraghi and woods: the Santu Bainzu hill is one of the extinct craters of the Meilogu protected as a natural monument, while the Monte Majore cave has a wide entrance, rock formations and a large bat colony. You can cycle or hike between dry-stone walls and pastures, visit a dairy to see how pecorino is made, or hunt for the many nuraghi nearby. Below you'll find the experiences offered by local operators: pick yours and book your day in the Meilogu.
History
Inhabited since Nuragic times, in the Middle Ages Thiesi belonged to the Judicate of Torres; after 1259 it passed to the Doria family, was fought over with the Malaspina and Arborea, and was taken by the Aragonese around the mid-1300s. In 1636 it became part of the marquisate of Montemaggiore, held by the Manca family. In October 1800 the villagers rose up against their feudal lord, the Duke of Asinara; government troops crushed the revolt, killing people and burning houses, and some rebels were executed the following year. Thiesi was finally freed when feudalism was abolished in 1839.
What to eat and buy
The star product is pecorino cheese, made by dairies known throughout Italy. Look out for sas impanadas, pastry pies filled with seasoned pork, su succu, fregola (Sardinian pasta pearls) cooked in broth, and su ghisadu, lamb stewed with tomato.
Festivals and traditions
- Santu Juanne (St John), in late June, also called the young people's festival.
- Madonna di Seunis, in early September, with a procession, groups in traditional dress and riders from the Meilogu.
Nearby
- Bessude and Siligo, with Romanesque churches and the Maria Carta museum.
- Bonnanaro and the Monte Arana sanctuary, overlooking the Valley of the Nuraghi.
- The basilica of San Pietro di Sorres in Borutta.
- Nuraghe Santu Antine in Torralba.
Getting there and when to go
The nearest airport is Alghero-Fertilia, about 50 minutes by car; the nearest port is Porto Torres. From Sassari it takes around 40 minutes via the SS 131 and the Meilogu provincial roads. Spring and early autumn are best for walking and visiting the sites, and in early September the Seunis festival livens up the village.
FAQ
How many days do you need for Thiesi?
One day covers the village, Seunis and Mandra Antine; with two days you can add the nearby Meilogu villages.
Is Thiesi good for families?
Yes: walks, nuraghi and a dairy visit are fun for children too.
