Things to do in Bonnanaro

Bonnanaro is a small village of about 900 people in the Meilogu, north-west Sardinia, nestled in a fertile valley between Monte Pelao and Monte Arana, roughly half an hour by car from Sassari. Its name is known to archaeologists worldwide: it gave its name to the Bonnanaro culture, a phase of the Early Bronze Age. Visitors come for cherries famous across the island, good wine, country churches and one of the finest views over the Valley of the Nuraghi. It's ideal if you're after archaeology, quiet nature and honest food.

What to see in Bonnanaro

Corona Moltana necropolis

About 2 km from the village is the Corona Moltana necropolis, with five domus de janas (prehistoric tombs carved into the rock). Excavations begun in the late 1800s uncovered pottery and grave goods that gave the Bonnanaro culture its name; many finds are on display at the G. A. Sanna National Museum in Sassari.

Monte Arana sanctuary

On the summit of Monte Arana, about 5 km from the village, stands the church of Nostra Signora di Monte Arana, surrounded by cumbessias (small pilgrims' houses) used during the novena. From up here you look out over the Valley of the Nuraghi.

Old town and churches

The village keeps 18th- and 19th-century manor houses. The parish church of San Giorgio has a neoclassical façade; also worth a look are 17th-century Santa Croce, Santa Maria Iscalas and Santa Barbara. At the foot of Monte Pelao is the little church of San Basilio, near the Nieddu nuraghe.

Things to do in Bonnanaro

The hilly countryside, full of springs and streams, is perfect for walks and bike rides among orchards, vineyards and nuraghi such as Nieddu, Faeddas and Toncanis. Hiking up Monte Arana at sunset is a must, and in late spring you can taste cherries right where they grow. Scroll down to discover the experiences offered by local operators: excursions, guided visits and tastings are waiting for you.

History

The area has been inhabited since the Neolithic, as the necropolises of Corona Moltana, Pertusos and Sas Turres show, and it also has Roman remains. The medieval village, then called Gunnanor, grew up around the year 1000, partly thanks to the nearby monastery of San Pietro di Sorres. It belonged to the Judicate of Torres, passed to the Doria family after 1259 and was sold to the King of Aragon in 1365. In 1795 the villagers joined the anti-feudal uprising led by Giovanni Maria Angioy; Bonnanaro was freed when feudalism was abolished in 1839.

What to eat and buy

Bonnanaro is famous all over Sardinia for its cherries. The village also makes a well-regarded wine, partly from rare grape varieties studied by the University of Sassari. Look out for the traditional costume, rich in embroidery, bright colours and coral and filigree jewellery.

Festivals and traditions

• Cherry festival (Sagra delle ciliegie), in June: the highlight of the year.
• Monte Arana feast, in early September, at the hilltop sanctuary.

The village also has a tradition of choral singing.

Nearby

• Nuraghe Santu Antine in Torralba, one of the most important in Sardinia.
• The Romanesque basilica of San Pietro di Sorres in Borutta.
• Thiesi, with the painted tombs of Mandra Antine.
• Siligo and the church of Nostra Signora di Mesumundu.

Getting there and when to go

The village lies just off the SS 131 Carlo Felice highway. The nearest airport is Alghero-Fertilia, about 50 minutes by car, and the nearest port is Porto Torres. The best time is late spring, when the cherries are ripe, or September, with the Monte Arana feast and pleasant temperatures.

FAQ

How long do you need for Bonnanaro?

Half a day covers Corona Moltana and Monte Arana; add Torralba and Borutta for a full day.

When is the Bonnanaro cherry festival?

Traditionally in June, during the harvest.

Is Bonnanaro good for families?

Yes: the walks and the view from Monte Arana suit everyone.