Things to do in Ales

Ales is the main town of the upper Marmilla: about 1,200 people on the eastern slopes of Monte Arci, roughly 35 km from Oristano. It has been a bishop's seat since the Middle Ages, one of the smallest dioceses in Italy, and is the birthplace of Antonio Gramsci. Come for the Baroque cathedral and its square, the places linked to Gramsci and the charming Museum of Traditional Toys. It suits travellers who love history, art and culture, and makes a good base for exploring Monte Arci.

What to see in Ales

The cathedral of Santi Pietro e Paolo

It towers over the upper town: built in 1686 to a design by Genoese architect Domenico Spotorno, it houses a rare 14th-century crucifix. Around the square stand the bishop's palace, the seminary and the oratory of the Madonna del Rosario. Ales also keeps an old diocesan archive, a precious source for the island's history.

Antonio Gramsci's Ales

The thinker was born here on 22 January 1891 and spent his early years in the town. On Corso Cattedrale, the Casa natale Antonio Gramsci association occupies the building long believed to be his birthplace. In Piazza Gramsci you'll find sculptor Giò Pomodoro's "Piano d'uso collettivo", unveiled in 1977: a large triangular stone space carved with Sardinian words such as sa terra (earth), s'agua (water) and su fogu (fire).

The Museum of Traditional Sardinian Toys

A collection devoted to the games and toys of the past, fun for children and nostalgic for adults.

Other churches and Barumele castle

The churches of Santa Maria and San Sebastiano are worth a look. In the countryside stand the ruins of the Aragonese castle of Barumele, abandoned in the 16th century, and the Gergui and Pranu Espis nuraghi.

Things to do in Ales

Ales is a gateway to the Monte Arci park, the extinct volcano famous for obsidian, the black volcanic glass traded across the Mediterranean in prehistory. Trails, woods and viewpoints are ideal for hiking and mountain biking. Pair nature with a cultural stroll through the old town. Choose from the hikes and experiences offered by local operators, just below.

History

People lived here in prehistory, drawn by the obsidian deposits. In the Middle Ages Ales belonged to the Giudicato of Arborea (one of Sardinia's medieval kingdoms) and became the chief town of its district. After 1420 it joined the Marquisate of Oristano and, from 1478, passed to the Aragonese as a fief of the Carroz, who built Barumele castle; it later became part of the Marquisate of Quirra, until it was bought back in 1839.

Food and local products

The food is that of the upper Marmilla: handmade pasta, sheep's cheese, olive oil and almond sweets. A few kilometres away, in Morgongiori, you can taste lorighittas pasta and buy loom-woven rugs.

Festivals and traditions

The most evocative feast is Santa Maria, in early September: women dress the statue in silk aprons, lace and silver chains, the sagrestaneddus (young altar boys) ring bells through the streets to announce the rite, the evening rosary is recited in Sardinian and on the last night a great bonfire is lit while goccius hymns are sung. Riders in traditional costume carrying embroidered banners accompany the processions.

Nearby

• Pau: the Obsidian Museum.
• Morgongiori: Sa Scala 'e Cresia and lorighittas pasta.
• Usellus: the church of Santa Reparata.
• Pompu: the Santu Miali nuraghe.
• Giara di Gesturi: the wild horses.

Getting there and when to go

From the SS131 take the Uras exit and follow the SS442 to Ales: Oristano is about 40 minutes away, Cagliari-Elmas airport about an hour and a quarter. Spring and autumn are ideal for Monte Arci; September combines mild weather with the Santa Maria feast.

FAQ

How long do I need for Ales?

Half a day for the cathedral, the Gramsci sites and the museum; a full day with a hike on Monte Arci.

Is Ales good for families?

Yes, children love the Toy Museum and the Arci trails include easy routes.

Where was Antonio Gramsci born?

In Ales, on 22 January 1891; he later lived for many years in Ghilarza, home of the Casa Gramsci museum.