Things to do in Suelli
Suelli, Sardinia: the former cathedral, the sanctuary of San Giorgio, the Piscu nuraghe, a pilgrim walk and Pentecost festivities.
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Suelli, Suèddi in Sardinian, is a village of about a thousand people in the Trexenta, southern Sardinia, less than an hour's drive from Cagliari. In the Middle Ages it was a bishop's see, and its former cathedral and the sanctuary of San Giorgio, its first bishop and patron saint, still make it a destination for faith and art. Its territory also holds the Piscu nuraghe, one of the most imposing in the area. Ideal for lovers of old churches, pilgrim walks, archaeology and folk festivals.
What to see in Suelli
Former cathedral of San Pietro and sanctuary of San Giorgio
Recorded as early as 1121, the church of San Pietro was a cathedral until the early 15th century. It shows Romanesque traces, Catalan Gothic alterations and a 19th-century façade. Above the high altar is a large painted altarpiece from 1533–35, plus a wooden pulpit from 1634 and an 18th-century organ. Attached to the church is the sanctuary of San Giorgio, where tradition says the bishop-saint lies: it holds a 17th-century altarpiece with scenes from his life and a reliquary said to contain part of his cope.
Piscu nuraghe
The Piscu nuraghe (a Bronze Age stone fortress) has a central tower with two stacked chambers, surrounded by a bastion with four towers and an outer wall, all in well-cut limestone blocks. The name is thought to come from episcopus, «bishop», as it was donated to the bishop. Excavations are under way and it may be closed to the public: check before you go.
Santi Cosma e Damiano park and Pranu Siara
About a kilometre from the village, the park combines ancient olive trees, the church of Santi Cosma e Damiano, the remains of the village of Cixi and a sacred well. On the Pranu Siara plateau there are prehistoric rock-cut tombs with an architecture unique in Sardinia.
Things to do in Suelli
The Cammino di San Giorgio vescovo is a spiritual walking route dedicated to the saint, perfect for discovering the Trexenta countryside. About 3 km north of the village lies Sa mintza de Santu Jorgi, an old spring with a small chapel that legend says sprang from one of the saint's miracles. Cycling and walks among wheat, vines and olives round off the visit: find local operators' experiences just below.
History
The area was inhabited in pre-Nuragic and Nuragic times. In the early 12th century Torchitorio II, judge of Cagliari, gave the land to Bishop Giorgio of Suelli, and the village became an ecclesiastical barony. After 1258 it passed to Pisa and from 1324 to Aragon, both of which respected the donation. In 1420 the diocese was merged with Cagliari and the barony passed to the archbishop until it was redeemed in 1839.
Food and shopping
Wheat, vines and olives are the main crops: pasta, bread, sausages and sweets such as parafritti, fried ring doughnuts, with a glass of vernaccia wine on festive evenings.
Festivals and traditions
- Mid-January: bonfire, su foghidoni, for Sant'Antonio Abate and San Sebastiano, with parafritti and vernaccia.
- Pentecost: feast of the patron saint San Giorgio, over five days, with the traditional parade of carts, sa circa de is carrus.
- August: the Chicco d'Oro («golden grain») festival with pasta tastings, and a sausage festival.
- 26 September: feast of Saints Cosmas and Damian in their park.
Nearby
- Senorbì: Sa Domu Nosta museum and the Monte Luna necropolis.
- Guasila: Gaetano Cima's neoclassical sanctuary.
- Ortacesus: the Grain Museum.
- Siurgus Donigala: Lake Mulargia.
Getting there and when to go
Cagliari's airport and port are about 50 minutes away by car along the SS128 via Senorbì. The village also has a stop on the Cagliari–Isili railway. The most evocative time is Pentecost, with the San Giorgio festival; spring and autumn are ideal for the walking route.
FAQ
What can I see in Suelli in half a day?
The former cathedral of San Pietro with the sanctuary of San Giorgio, the church of the Carmine and the Santi Cosma e Damiano park.
Can you visit the Piscu nuraghe?
It's being excavated and may be closed: check ahead, though you can still see it from outside.
When is San Giorgio celebrated in Suelli?
Around Pentecost, with religious rites and the parade of carts.
