Marmilla and Sarcidano · Città metropolitana di Cagliari

Things to do in Escalaplano

Things to do in Escalaplano, Sardinia: Flumendosa valley views, country churches, lentisk oil, festivals and how to get there.

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Escalaplano (Scalepranu in Sardinian) sits on a tableland about 340 metres high in the Gerrei region, on the border with Ogliastra, surrounded by the deep valleys of the Flumendosa and Flumineddu rivers. It's a village of about two thousand people with fertile land of orchards, olive groves and cork woods, still little known to tourists. Come here for valley views, nature hikes, scattered archaeology and heartfelt traditional festivals.

What to see in Escalaplano

Parish church of San Sebastiano

In the village centre, the patron saint's church dates from the 16th century and is built in Catalan Gothic style. Its original façade features a large inlaid rose window.

Country church of San Salvatore

On the Is Sceasa plateau, along the road to Ballao, stands this little church built of mud and straw bricks and recently restored: a rare example of earthen architecture in an open landscape.

Archaeology

People have lived here since prehistory: domus de janas (rock-cut tombs, “fairy houses”), nuraghi (prehistoric stone towers) and a few Roman ruins are scattered across the countryside.

The Flumendosa and Flumineddu valleys

The real show is the landscape: from the edge of the tableland you look over the gorges and valleys of the two rivers, among Mediterranean scrub and cork woods.

Things to do in Escalaplano

The area is ideal for hiking, mountain biking and horse riding along the river valleys and over the plateaus, plus panoramic sunset photos. In minutes you can reach the Pranu Mutteddu menhir park in Goni and the archaeological sites of the Gerrei. The experiences offered by local operators, below, are the best way to discover its hidden corners.

History

According to tradition, the first village stood at Is Arantas; it was later moved up onto the plateau (su pranu) and called Villanova de Scala de Plan, after the long road leading up to it – hence today's name. A mid-14th-century document mentions it as a newly founded village. In the Middle Ages it belonged to the district of Siurgus in the Judicate of Cagliari; in 1363 it became part of the Carroz family's county of Quirra and in 1604 of the duchy of Mandas. A plague around 1652 greatly reduced the population; feudal rule ended in 1839.

Food and local products

The most unusual product is lentisk oil, pressed from the berries of the Mediterranean mastic shrub and used in cooking for centuries. There's also sheep's and goat's cheese, olive oil, wines and the traditional sweets served at the winter festivals.

Festivals and traditions

17 and 20 January: Sant'Antonio Abate and the patron San Sebastiano, with bonfires, wine, sweets and dancing.
15 May: San Salvatore, when the statue is carried to the country church.
24 June: San Giovanni, with a procession in traditional dress and traccas, ox-drawn carts decorated with flowers.
June: lentisk oil and cheese festival.
Mid-August: folk festival.
4 December: Santa Barbara.

Nearby

Goni, about 7 km away, with Pranu Mutteddu and the nuraghe above Lake Mulargia.
Ballao, about 7 km away, with the sacred well of Funtana Coberta.
Orroli and Nuraghe Arrubiu.
Perdasdefogu and the landscapes of Ogliastra.

Getting there and when to go

The main airport and port are in Cagliari, about an hour and a half's drive through the Gerrei (via Dolianova and Ballao). You'll need a car, and expect some winding roads. Spring and autumn are perfect for hiking; June combines early summer weather with the lentisk festival and the feast of San Giovanni.