Things to do in Morgongiori

Morgongiori is a village of about six hundred people in the upper Marmilla, on the southern slope of Monte Arci, around 30 km from Oristano. It's nicknamed the "city of stones" for its trachyte and basalt houses, arched doorways and courtyards. Three reasons to come: lorighittas, a pasta made nowhere else; rug weaving on the loom, still very much alive; and countryside full of prehistoric sites and trails. Perfect if you love hiking, archaeology, crafts and traditional food.

What to see in Morgongiori

The old village

The streets keep dark stone houses with arched portals, loggias and inner courtyards. The parish church of Santa Maria Maddalena, from 1673, holds the community's historic archive.

Sa Scala 'e Cresia

The most striking site: a deep cleft in the rock, Sa Domu 'e is Caombus, with a basalt staircase leading down to the underground Nuragic temple of Sa Scala 'e Cresia, at Sa Punta 'e Santu Marcu.

Domus de janas and menhir

At Prabanta you'll find the domus de janas (prehistoric rock-cut tombs, literally "fairy houses") of Sa Sala and Su Forru, linked to the legend of the witch Luxia Arrabiosa, and the menhir known as Su Furconi. There are also nuraghi such as Trunku de is Pillonis and S'Omu 'e s'Orcu.

The Muvat

This living museum of textile art displays rugs, tapestries and saddlebags, with local women demonstrating weaving on the traditional horizontal loom. The village also hosts the environmental centre of the Monte Arci park.

Things to do in Morgongiori

Monte Arci is an extinct volcano: trails through holm oaks and scrub lead to the is Benas pine wood, springs, small waterfalls and caves, up to Sa Trebina Longa (812 m), an ancient volcanic neck. There's rock climbing on the cliffs and mountain biking on the tracks, and along the way you'll pass Conca Mraxi, the rock called the "warrior's head". With luck you'll spot wild horses, buzzards and falcons, while chips of obsidian glint on the ground. Pick from the hikes and experiences offered by local operators, just below.

History

People have lived here since prehistory, when Monte Arci obsidian was quarried, worked and traded across the Mediterranean. Nuraghi and sanctuaries followed in the Nuragic age. In the Middle Ages the village belonged to the Giudicato of Arborea; then came the Marquisate of Oristano and, from 1478, the Aragonese. It was a fief of the Carroz, Centelles, Català and Osorio de la Cueva families until it was bought back in 1839.

Food and local products

Lorighittas are the village's pride: two strands of semolina pasta twisted by hand into a small ring (loriga), usually served with tomato and meat sauce. To take home: loom-woven rugs and tapestries with traditional patterns, and gutturadas, woven collars used to decorate horses and oxen.

Festivals and traditions

• Mid-May: the farmers' feast, with a procession of horses and oxen dressed in gutturadas.
• Early August: the much-loved lorighittas festival.
• August: the tapestry and rug exhibition.
• Mid-October: the feast of Santa Suia.

Nearby

• Pau: the Obsidian Museum.
• Ales: the cathedral and Antonio Gramsci's birthplace.
• Pompu: the Santu Miali nuraghe.
• Giara di Gesturi: the plateau of the wild horses.

Getting there and when to go

Oristano is about 40 minutes away; Cagliari-Elmas airport about an hour and a quarter via the SS131, exiting towards Uras. Spring and autumn are ideal for walking on Monte Arci; August is festival month.

FAQ

How long do I need for Morgongiori?

Half a day for the village, the Muvat and Sa Scala 'e Cresia; a full day if you add a hike on Monte Arci.

What are lorighittas?

A fresh ring-shaped pasta, handmade by twisting two strands of dough: it's unique to Morgongiori.

Is Morgongiori good for families?

Yes, with easy trails in the pine wood and live weaving that fascinates kids; take care and wear proper shoes on the Sa Scala 'e Cresia steps.